2001 discovery 2 with 60,000 miles what’s a fair price?
#21
#22
Don’t listen to the guys that say it won’t be reliable because if you follow the directions of this board and do the must things on the maintenance list it will run just fine. But if you take it to shops they have no idea
now 12k American is a bit much that’s almost 15 k Canadian.
10 k if it had proper maintenance done like 180 stat fluids head gaskets etc
now 12k American is a bit much that’s almost 15 k Canadian.
10 k if it had proper maintenance done like 180 stat fluids head gaskets etc
And personally, I've always been a proponent of buying higher mileage Discoverys. You're more likely to find on that's been maintained by an enthusiast and has had basic issues like head gaskets and front driveshaft already addressed if you buy one that has 150-160k miles.
All that said, my experience with my D2 (of 5 years) a few months ago has scared me away from the stock engine. I'd be hard pressed to buy one for a daily driver again unless I got one with a bad engine and did an LS swap. ACEngineer will have kits available in the coming months affordably enough to do a swap for near or less than the price of a Turner engine. Of course, 4 miles isn't a lot, but it's really rough for wear and tear because nothing is really getting up to temp which causes its own issues for any vehicle.
Best of luck, and if you've got any specific questions feel free to ask. I've been in the game a while now, as have a bunch of these guys.
#23
This is *mostly* true, but sometimes things still go wrong with them despite maintenance (more than other vehicles). There are still issues that can't be prevented through maintenance, like walked cam bearings, bad crank position sensors, and bad XYZ switches.
And personally, I've always been a proponent of buying higher mileage Discoverys. You're more likely to find on that's been maintained by an enthusiast and has had basic issues like head gaskets and front driveshaft already addressed if you buy one that has 150-160k miles.
All that said, my experience with my D2 (of 5 years) a few months ago has scared me away from the stock engine. I'd be hard pressed to buy one for a daily driver again unless I got one with a bad engine and did an LS swap. ACEngineer will have kits available in the coming months affordably enough to do a swap for near or less than the price of a Turner engine. Of course, 4 miles isn't a lot, but it's really rough for wear and tear because nothing is really getting up to temp which causes its own issues for any vehicle.
Best of luck, and if you've got any specific questions feel free to ask. I've been in the game a while now, as have a bunch of these guys.
And personally, I've always been a proponent of buying higher mileage Discoverys. You're more likely to find on that's been maintained by an enthusiast and has had basic issues like head gaskets and front driveshaft already addressed if you buy one that has 150-160k miles.
All that said, my experience with my D2 (of 5 years) a few months ago has scared me away from the stock engine. I'd be hard pressed to buy one for a daily driver again unless I got one with a bad engine and did an LS swap. ACEngineer will have kits available in the coming months affordably enough to do a swap for near or less than the price of a Turner engine. Of course, 4 miles isn't a lot, but it's really rough for wear and tear because nothing is really getting up to temp which causes its own issues for any vehicle.
Best of luck, and if you've got any specific questions feel free to ask. I've been in the game a while now, as have a bunch of these guys.
#24
If you're looking for reliability, yes. The lr3 made a lit of improvements on the D2 in the way of reliability. If it's similar money and you like it as well, that is the direction I would urge you.
That said, if you really love the D2 then don't let me dissuade you. They're great vehicles in a lot of ways and I have no intention of getting rid of mine. Just know what you're getting into.
That said, if you really love the D2 then don't let me dissuade you. They're great vehicles in a lot of ways and I have no intention of getting rid of mine. Just know what you're getting into.
#25
It’s running great for now and Ive spent $25 adding the heated seat switches and $10 fixing the rear cup holder.. But its all personal preference, from what I gather and what I have accepted is that you just never know with these trucks. The guy I bought it from suggested that I change the water pump and front cover within the year. But my decision has been that I’m not going to blow time and money throwing band aid fixes at it. Ive started a fund for the truck and I’m just going to have the cooling system upgraded and put a new engine in it and drive it without too much worry from then out. Ill expect to service well and do upkeep projects from time to time. It’s kind of a pay now, or pay later scenario with these trucks. Do what makes you feel best.
FWIW, I could’ve bought an 03 SE7 with the same miles and with some extra goodies for $2250 but it was a bit rougher and it hadn’t had the same amount of recent service work and replaced parts... in the end I didnt feel good about it, so I paid a little more.
Last edited by Daytoman; 12-25-2018 at 06:57 PM.
#27
I have owned 11 Discos including the current 5. Lower miles means you get it before most of the potential issues arrive, able to prevent some of them. Disco's issues come down to four categories:
Discos are much more DIY friendly than LR3's and parts are much cheaper. If you are going to pay to have the work done the Disco is going to be more expensive likely because of the dozens of small issues on the list above, especially if you buy a higher mileage one. If you are going to DIY then I would recommend buying a low 6 figure mileage one and replace items pre-emptively. LR3's have fewer small problems but when they have issues they are bigger. Rebuilt engines for an LR is going to be 1.5x that of a Disco.
- Wear related issues - you can't prevent these, they are mostly use and time dependent, the good news is most items in this category last at least 130k, when some start going bad.
- Hubs
- Door lock actuators (lifetime is cycle limited).
- Idler pulley bearings
- Water pump - bearings wear out and then it leaks coolant - these only last about 50k or so. Either change regularly or keep a close eye on the coolant level and under the truck for coolant leaks
- Design related issues - these can potentially be prevented.
- Oil leaks due to plugged valve cover baffle
- window regulators
- sunroof leaks due to pan design gaps and resulting headliner and sunroof motor issues
- Oxygen sensors - these are always related to blown headgaskets
- Blown head gaskets and slipped cam bearings - most likely related to overheating related to the plastic cooling system components leaking all the coolant out.
- Overheating due to faulty thermostat - no Land Rover design is immune, by pass mod is the most reliable.
- Age related issues - due to environmental degradation
- Brake master cylinder reservoir leakage
- Plastic cooling system components - res tank, radiator tanks, plastic lines, hoses
- Ignition coil failures
- Spark plug wires
- Interior fuse box circuit
- Sunroof leaks related to cracked tubes
- PS pump gasket leakage
- Brake booster
- Power seat switches
- Cracked cowl panel
- cruise control hoses
- Maintenance related issues - totally preventable
- Rusty frame
- Stuck rear door handle due to rust
Discos are much more DIY friendly than LR3's and parts are much cheaper. If you are going to pay to have the work done the Disco is going to be more expensive likely because of the dozens of small issues on the list above, especially if you buy a higher mileage one. If you are going to DIY then I would recommend buying a low 6 figure mileage one and replace items pre-emptively. LR3's have fewer small problems but when they have issues they are bigger. Rebuilt engines for an LR is going to be 1.5x that of a Disco.
The following 2 users liked this post by Extinct:
Daytoman (12-25-2018),
Hughjasknuts (11-05-2022)
#28
Just an update. Test drove the discovery and it’s in great condition. Just a little rust by the windows and some small stuff wasn’t working like the volume ****. What scared me was that they just replaced the thermostat meaning that it probably has overheated before. It also seemed to lack power. Not sure if they are all like that as this was the first discovery I have driven. I can definitely see why people love these things just wasn’t worth the price in my book. The lr3 that I test drove was a different story. Here’s my review of the dealer where I test drove the lr3
“Test drove a 2008 Land Rover lr3. Put the keys in the ignition and had multiple faults including a system failure and ride heigh adjustment failure. Ok so obviously I was not interested anymore but thought I would test drive it anyway. Drove it for 15 minutes and engine was smoking. Popped the hood and oil was spewing from the block. Unethical and downright dishonest business.”
Im still on the hunt for my first landy. Despite my test driving experience I’m beginning to lean towards an lr3. Thanks for all the advice.
“Test drove a 2008 Land Rover lr3. Put the keys in the ignition and had multiple faults including a system failure and ride heigh adjustment failure. Ok so obviously I was not interested anymore but thought I would test drive it anyway. Drove it for 15 minutes and engine was smoking. Popped the hood and oil was spewing from the block. Unethical and downright dishonest business.”
Im still on the hunt for my first landy. Despite my test driving experience I’m beginning to lean towards an lr3. Thanks for all the advice.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post