Do I have a transmission problem or is it something else? It's an automatic and it seems to shift smoothly but when cruising and I ease up on the accelerator and then reengage again it sometimes slips and "clanks". It's an intermittent problem that sounds like it's coming from the front end. Also, I hear a similar clank when shifting to reverse. Are they related? Can it be the flex plate because I'm suffering from the same "ticking" problem when warmed up as so many others, or are these totally separate issues. I also exhaust black smoke(carbon), not blue, when I accelerate hard. In addition, can anyone recommend a great mechanic in Miami? Thanks to anyone who can help.

 

Could be U-Joints.

 

I second that on the U joints and the front shaft placement scares me to death. I'd check that out just to be safe and diagnose from there.

 

X3 on checking the U-joints. The front drive shaft is prone to failure due to the U-joints in the double cardan joint being non-serviceable from the factory. It is HIGHLY recommended to rebuild the front shaft with grease-able joints, and replace the centering ball before a joint fails and creates an inspection port in your transmission (see sticky in this forum).

That being said (and hopefully heeded), these vehicles have some driveline slop. When you "ease up on the accelerator" are you lifting from the gas pedal completely? On my own vehicle, if I take my foot off the gas pedal completely, (thinking I am coming to a stop or something)I have learned to wait for the transmission to downshift before reapplying the throttle to avoid a clunk from the driveline.

I also used to get an occasional clunk when shifting into reverse from park. I have virtually eliminated this by setting the parking brake (which I have adjusted properly) in neutral before engaging park. Once I began this practise, the clunk from park into reverse, has disappeared.

 

Many thanks to all for the advice. To answer the question from Lordmorpheus, the problem occurs in both scenarios, when i lift slightly and completely. But again, it's intermittent, sometimes it transitions smoothly

 

Definitely check the front prop shaft. The OEM shaft has a grease fitting on the front joint, and a plug in the shaft which can be removed, refitted with a zerk, and greased. IF the two rear joints to not have grease fitings, or if they do, and have not been greased at least twice a year, it is time to rebuild that front shaft, and prevent a catastrophe.

How long have you owned this vehicle? It's taken me almost 4 years driving mine to learn when to let off the gas, and when to apply to avoid the clunk. Next time you drive it, when there's no one right behind you, take your foot of the gas completely, and then reapply it. Then do the same thing, but wait for it to slow down and the transmission to either downshift, or for the torque converter to unlock (the torque converter locks at about 45MPH in 4th gear when the engine is at normal operating temperature. You may not be able to feel it, but with a warm engine, from a stop, count the shifts and watch the tachometer. When 4th gear is reached, the RPMs will drop slightly at about 45 MPH when the converter locks).

 

re: prevent a catastrophe.

The situation will take place with little or no warning, sometimes a chirping noise. The shaft splits apart, spears a big hole in the transmission, and then you need a whole transmission (not just a rebuild) and a front drive shaft. Right now you need a few U-joints, which are in the $10 - $20 range each. Good write up with pictures in the tech section, see Propshaft Rebuild - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum. DIY or have an indy driveline shop take care of it.

For the smoke perhaps some fuel system cleaner is in order, like Techron, from parts store, and new plugs and wires if never changed, clean throttle body with cleaner made for it.

For tick - these come from various sources: oil pump cracked, flex plate cracked, slipping cyclinder liner / sleeve, SAI system troubles. Oil pump can look like this, and a oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge can confirm if it is pumping enough PSI.

 

have you ujoints check and replaced if needed but drive line slop in Normal on older LR.
You soon learn how to drive it with out the clunk, whick is to always keep tension on the driveline.
Pretty soon you dont even realize that your driving like that.