Link to head gasket changing pictures..

Secret is
1) Parking lot
2) Warmth
3) Tools
4) Car battery, inverter and trouble light

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

 

You guys all rock.., thanks for the input and guidance...This forum is awesome... getting the pressure tested today...checking for leaks... there is (mild) head gasket leakage on exterior..no white smoke..installing the new Thermy..radiator seems consistent in temp top to bottom... We'll see what happens. Thanks again guys

 

Let us know what happens with the pressure test. That mild HG leak might be a lot bigger under load/pressure.

 

What should the water pump flow rate be at idle, after the thermostat has opened and engine is at or near 180F? Is ~one quart/minute low?

 

One quart/minute sounds really low.

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found this with Google
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Depends on the layout, a V engine will typically need a much higher flow rate than an inline one, and of course engine designs will vary anyway. But assuming it's a V then rough order of magnitude 2-3 liters per second with a pressure differential probably around 2 bar.









Tuesday 3rd June 2008
hmmmm, the coolant flow is really a factor of the amount of power/heat that the engine generates........all I can do is say that for every bhp, you should have 1/3rd that figure in L/min as a coolant flow rate.......so lets say its a 300bhp engine, you should ahve 100L/min coolant flow rate......I have used this on many professional race engines and kit cars and it works a treat.

 

Thanks.

Yeah, it's an '88 Classic with a 3.9 update (about 30K miles ago). Has always run cool, and even cooler after I replaced the radiator last year, however, it's begun to run a couple needle widths higher recently. The water pump bearing is smooth and quiet, and there are no leaks, but I'll pull it out and have a look at the impeller tomorrow.

Things I've checked or know to be okay:
No water in the crank.
No leaks.
New thermostat.
One year old radiator.
One year old viscous coupled fan.
New water temperature sensor.

 

Could be mud/leaves in fins of radiatior and AC condenser. Could be fan clutch worn out, check to make sure it does not "freewheel" when spun and released after warm up, should not go more than a whole turn.

Be sure stat is good (you can test in hot water on the stove), installed in right direction (spring inside block). A "jiggle device" or 1/8 inch hole at 12:00 position of stat helps any trapped bubble make their way past the stat and not create a steam pocket.

Pump is 2.64 gallons per minute at 1000 rpm at 10 PSI. That spec is for a D2, but same pump is on a D1. But to measure that you would need stat removed, as it opens and closes or changes size of opening based on temp.

Note - the 3.9 engine used a stat that was fully open at 82C. Not a 195 stat that many American parts computers spit out. Page on that, plus pix of a water pump done in by high miles and use of ordinary water (not distilled). And aftermarket pump that has larger bronze impeller vs stamped steel one.

 

After I did my head job My temp was off the charts here come to find out my electric fan went bad called the parts guy I have listed on my sig and It was good to go. Do you hear the electric fan running?

 

After the system checks and the replacement of the "obvious" possible cause parts, that I listed in my prior message, I pulled off the water pump in a last ditch effort. It's impeller was as clean as the one on the replacement pump I had already purchased. Arrrrgh!

So, after reassembly, added a quart of radiator flush. After driving about 50 miles, temperature gauge reading is back to normal.

Thanks to members of this Forum for all the suggestions. I'll be making up my next batch of 50:50 coolant with DI water!