Talked last week on the stake nut removal and hub replacement (THANKS again to all who helped me!!!). 3 Amigos went away......for awhile. Went to start yesterday and as I turned the key on for a minute I saw that the 3 lights were back on. They will not clear, again. I got a LRII tool, but either I am using it wrong or it is something else because fault code is not showing on tool. One of my questions is, being that I replaced the shuttle valve switch what is the likelihood that option B is required? Any other ideas? Thanks guys!!


rmcc

 

I will always vote for option b, even if you have replaced the shuttle valve.

BUT...let's figure out why you are not seeing the codes first.

Can you walk us through screen by screen what you are seeing on your LRII tool (not sure if you mean iCarsoft LRII).

 

Yes iCarsoft LRII. Will get back on here tomorrow with info. Thank you.

 

Shuttle Valve Switch replacement is pointless if the internal connector is messed up. The 3 amigo’s will almost certainly return. Perform Option B, and that will fix that issue.

LRII wise you click on Diagnose/Land Rover/V12.20/Discovery/Discovery2/PetrolM52/Manual/ABS and then you go into the codes & delete them or check status. Problem with the bad internal connector is the faults will trip again the moment you cycle the key. You can get a nice little plug at any boat shop which has a trailer style disconnect. I’ve never been able to find them in the trailer wiring section of any auto store locally so the boat shop was my next stop & they had em for 5.99.

The bolt for the AC Line works well as a ground, and you can peel back the black wrap, and connect to the yellow/green strip wire & then pull the black wrap back into place and route the new wires & rubber disconnect in a nice clean factory type fashion.

When wiring the Shuttle Valve Switches I used 3M butt connectors with the heat shrink on them & with a little trimmed of each side they fit nicely inside the Shuttle Valve Switch assembly. Then I widened the two small OEM holes slighly and fed my wires thru it.

 

Option B is a good start but depending on the age of the D2, mileage and luck it could be the shuttle valves are leaking brake fluid (it's 2# tiny seals and snap on clips available in the US which aren't included in the SVS purchase). Additionally, it may be the wheel sensors (a good diag tool can identify which one) are defective or even the wheel bearing(s) are defective. Ultimately it may be the battery or alternator output is too low. When you identify the codes (DTC's) you need to clear them from the SLABS with the diag or they will continue to show up.

 

Make sure you're checking for codes in the ABS system, not just in the OBDII system.

 

OK..back from the land of frustration!! Have not been able to use LRII yet (it is home, I am not), but here is what happened today. Started up, no 3 A's, got about 1 1/2 miles from home, they came on. Got to my meeting, came back out later and started up, no A's, got 50' from parking place and they came on. Parked at office, left to go to make a pick up, lights came on after about 5 miles. Shut off for about 1/2 hr, started up no lights , drove home, still no lights???????? This is driving me nuts!! Will do a scan with LRII when I get home in the morning.

 

Classic Shuttle Valve Switch internal connector faults. Option B will take care of it.