3 Amigos frustration... Help!
#1
3 Amigos frustration... Help!
So here is my story with 3 amigos. Starting to get a little frustrated.
So initially on my nanocom I had these 2 codes. Front right wheel speed sensor and shuttle valve. I would clear these codes, and as soon as I left the driveway and turned I would get front right wheel speed sensor code.
So I replaced the front right sensor and did the shuttle valve mod. Thought I was winning as I went on my drive and made it further, nearly all the way around the block! But got code for front right wheel speed sensor again! I checked resistance for this sensor and it is out of spec 1160ohms, my old one tests good for resistance, 1050ohms. It was a cheap sensor.
At this point I decided to try a spare slabs ecu I had (unknown working condition) anyway plugged this in drove around the block, 3 amigos again, check the code and this time I have pump failure 4?? What the??
Im wondering what my next steps should be, do I try the old sensor now I have done the shuttle valve mod, with my original slabs ecu?? Should I be buying and oem hub assembly? I would like to diagnose properlt rather then throwing parts. I have a nanocom.
Thanks for all your help.
So initially on my nanocom I had these 2 codes. Front right wheel speed sensor and shuttle valve. I would clear these codes, and as soon as I left the driveway and turned I would get front right wheel speed sensor code.
So I replaced the front right sensor and did the shuttle valve mod. Thought I was winning as I went on my drive and made it further, nearly all the way around the block! But got code for front right wheel speed sensor again! I checked resistance for this sensor and it is out of spec 1160ohms, my old one tests good for resistance, 1050ohms. It was a cheap sensor.
At this point I decided to try a spare slabs ecu I had (unknown working condition) anyway plugged this in drove around the block, 3 amigos again, check the code and this time I have pump failure 4?? What the??
Im wondering what my next steps should be, do I try the old sensor now I have done the shuttle valve mod, with my original slabs ecu?? Should I be buying and oem hub assembly? I would like to diagnose properlt rather then throwing parts. I have a nanocom.
Thanks for all your help.
#3
Thank you
#4
A little unrelated, but how did you measure resistance for the sensor?
I’m dealing with a Amigos/ P0501 issue. I just replaced both front half shafts and hubs and when I did the passenger side, I came to realize there was the proper repair of running the new WSS all the way into the dash. I thought this was good, but I got an immediate Amigos error stating electrical connection was lost upon reinstallation and my “BRAKE” light is even on.
I’m still shaking down my latest Disco and it still needs brakes and a good bleed, but I read about the resistance and wondered how to read. Did you simply put the posts of the meter on the posts of the sensor? I want to see if I can try this.
Thanks!
I’m dealing with a Amigos/ P0501 issue. I just replaced both front half shafts and hubs and when I did the passenger side, I came to realize there was the proper repair of running the new WSS all the way into the dash. I thought this was good, but I got an immediate Amigos error stating electrical connection was lost upon reinstallation and my “BRAKE” light is even on.
I’m still shaking down my latest Disco and it still needs brakes and a good bleed, but I read about the resistance and wondered how to read. Did you simply put the posts of the meter on the posts of the sensor? I want to see if I can try this.
Thanks!
#5
A little unrelated, but how did you measure resistance for the sensor?
I’m dealing with a Amigos/ P0501 issue. I just replaced both front half shafts and hubs and when I did the passenger side, I came to realize there was the proper repair of running the new WSS all the way into the dash. I thought this was good, but I got an immediate Amigos error stating electrical connection was lost upon reinstallation and my “BRAKE” light is even on.
I’m still shaking down my latest Disco and it still needs brakes and a good bleed, but I read about the resistance and wondered how to read. Did you simply put the posts of the meter on the posts of the sensor? I want to see if I can try this.
Thanks!
I’m dealing with a Amigos/ P0501 issue. I just replaced both front half shafts and hubs and when I did the passenger side, I came to realize there was the proper repair of running the new WSS all the way into the dash. I thought this was good, but I got an immediate Amigos error stating electrical connection was lost upon reinstallation and my “BRAKE” light is even on.
I’m still shaking down my latest Disco and it still needs brakes and a good bleed, but I read about the resistance and wondered how to read. Did you simply put the posts of the meter on the posts of the sensor? I want to see if I can try this.
Thanks!
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longtallsally (05-30-2022)
#6
And following on there, did you see any appreciable increase in resistance going from the SLABS plug to the other end of the wiring?
I ask because my situation is that the correct repair was done to mine at some point where the WSS was wired all the way in to the plug- and even had new connectors into the plug itself inserted, so technically that is the only reading I can take. However, that WSS now is showing electrical failure, so I’m wondering if I can get away with clipping the wire and soldering there. I’ve done it that way in the past with success and just wondered if you thought I would introduce too much resistance with a solder joint under the hood (when I’ve soldered them in before, they were only a few inches from the SLABS plug).
#7
Perfect, thank you. You are a mind reader and answered my next question about doing it not only at the plug, but at the SLABS connector as well.
And following on there, did you see any appreciable increase in resistance going from the SLABS plug to the other end of the wiring?
I ask because my situation is that the correct repair was done to mine at some point where the WSS was wired all the way in to the plug- and even had new connectors into the plug itself inserted, so technically that is the only reading I can take. However, that WSS now is showing electrical failure, so I’m wondering if I can get away with clipping the wire and soldering there. I’ve done it that way in the past with success and just wondered if you thought I would introduce too much resistance with a solder joint under the hood (when I’ve soldered them in before, they were only a few inches from the SLABS plug).
And following on there, did you see any appreciable increase in resistance going from the SLABS plug to the other end of the wiring?
I ask because my situation is that the correct repair was done to mine at some point where the WSS was wired all the way in to the plug- and even had new connectors into the plug itself inserted, so technically that is the only reading I can take. However, that WSS now is showing electrical failure, so I’m wondering if I can get away with clipping the wire and soldering there. I’ve done it that way in the past with success and just wondered if you thought I would introduce too much resistance with a solder joint under the hood (when I’ve soldered them in before, they were only a few inches from the SLABS plug).
I have heard of that being a problem that's why I checked, but to my disappointment as I was hoping the problem may be the connector - I read the exact same value at the connector and at the Ecu.
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longtallsally (05-31-2022)
#8
So I think i have confirmed my issue lies within that sensor/hub. Is there anyway I can for sure eliminate one or the other, sensor v hub? My nanocom shows voltage and reads wheel speed up the 8kmh all good (Nanocom won't read hire than this - stated in the manual). But obviously at some higher speed it looses its signal.
I may try the grease trick? Or do I just buy new genuine hub assembly?
Thanks
#9
Hey, so I cleared to codes, took it for another drive, and bingo, front right wheel speed sensor again.
So I think i have confirmed my issue lies within that sensor/hub. Is there anyway I can for sure eliminate one or the other, sensor v hub? My nanocom shows voltage and reads wheel speed up the 8kmh all good (Nanocom won't read hire than this - stated in the manual). But obviously at some higher speed it looses its signal.
I may try the grease trick? Or do I just buy new genuine hub assembly?
Thanks
So I think i have confirmed my issue lies within that sensor/hub. Is there anyway I can for sure eliminate one or the other, sensor v hub? My nanocom shows voltage and reads wheel speed up the 8kmh all good (Nanocom won't read hire than this - stated in the manual). But obviously at some higher speed it looses its signal.
I may try the grease trick? Or do I just buy new genuine hub assembly?
Thanks
on your latest issue, I have heard of non OEM hubs not playing well, or WSSs needing to be shimmed- or not- in order to get proper readings.
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