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3inch Tfirma lift help

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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 05:39 PM
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CarolinaRovin's Avatar
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Default 3inch Tfirma lift help

All, forgive my ignorance but here I go.
Lucky8 is closed so I'm in a bind. Installing my springs and shocks on the front of my 2003. The metal bases that the springs sit on, ie... the new ones that came with the kit , the 2 bolt holes do not match up on the axle boss. I would like to use the new ones because they are taller and I would think they would hold the springs better during flex.
Either this "kit" included the wrong Bases or they cover several different models and it is ok to use the short originals.
if I need to use the taller ones included in the kit I will need to hog out one of the shock holes 1/2" at least.
Also the included thin round rubber isolator goes at the top I presume? Since it will physically not fit the bottom. Seems overkill since their already is a factory one at the bottom of the spring/shock perch.

Forgive my dumbness, my wife says your not supposed to work outside with pneumonia, but I just can't sit around despite being tired.

Thanks all.........
 
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 06:12 PM
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Are you trying to put the bases on the front or back? I don't know which one the TF kit comes with, but I do know that the perches on the front and rear are different. If the holes are off then they go on the opposite end.

Also, the isolator replaces the factory isolator unless you want to use both for the extra 1/2" which I actually did use an extra for.

Either way, the factory perches are perfectly fine to use as long as they're not terribly rusted out. It won't make any difference as far as holding the springs during articulation.
 

Last edited by Alex_M; Jan 21, 2017 at 06:14 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
Are you trying to put the bases on the front or back? I don't know which one the TF kit comes with, but I do know that the perches on the front and rear are different. If the holes are off then they go on the opposite end.

Also, the isolator replaces the factory isolator unless you want to use both for the extra 1/2" which I actually did use an extra for.

Either way, the factory perches are perfectly fine to use as long as they're not terribly rusted out. It won't make any difference as far as holding the springs during articulation.

How interesting.
I just went out and opened the box for the rear shocks and struts. No other mounts or hardware included. The fronts had rubber isolators , lower metal mounts and new shock hardware.


Thanks for the info, ..... I was concerned with the shorter original lower mounts, the springs don't want to "locate" themselves correctly. They want to slip and slide around up into the top where the lower shock mount sits and bolts down.
I dont have weight on the axle yet tho.

If it isn't an issue I might leave the 2 upper isolators installed. Maybe I'll reconsider, I'm just tired now.

I appreciate the response,
going to try to get the rears installed tomorrow. I'll take a look at the old mounts and if they match my new ones I'll swap in the new ones with the wider bolt spacing.
Noticed the new rear springs were marked D/S and P/S, never imagined they would be side specific.


Cheers and much appreciated.
.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 08:33 PM
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I forget; are the isolators on the front or rear? If they're on the front I wouldn't double stack them, but if they're on the rear and you want to use both then put on on top and one on bottom.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 06:59 PM
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There are isolators both front and rear.

Rear looks like this - Isolator Rear Spring (ANR2938 Same Fit As Part # ANR2938 ) - Land Rover springs from Atlantic British

Front looks like this - Isolator Spring - Front (RBC100111 Same Fit As Part # RBC100111 ) - Land Rover springs from Atlantic British

I wouldn't double up. One other thing to note. The original LR springs were slightly longer (or stronger) on the drivers side than the passenger side. If you are looking at a parked disco from behind you can sometimes see that the drivers side sits higher than the other side. Some of the aftermarket companies do the same thing with their springs. With a driver's weight in the drivers seat the vehicle rides level.

I don't know why this is so (doesn't make sense to me) but I've observed it on several disco's that I've seen around and when I ordered my OME lift kit from BP of Utah I had a three hour phone conversation on springs and shocks and that was one of the interesting tidbits I took away. I had him set me up with the longer springs on all four wheels. Mine looks level from behind, at least when I look at it. It might sit lower on the drivers side when I'm in it. Crazy, but not the craziest thing on these beasts that I've come across.

If you have springs that are labeled drivers side and passengers side then make sure you have them in the proper spot. You don't want to criss cross them and be rolling down the street looking all cattywhompus!

In my opinion the rears were easier than the front. Good luck with your install, get to feeling better and post again if you have more questions.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 07:25 PM
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Thanx all for the info.
Fronts were not labeled R or L, but were dinged, scratched and chipped in "New" packaging.
My fault for letting the kit sit boxed up for a year and not looking. Rears are labeled D and P so that is where I will put them.
No New front rubber isolators or lower spring perches in the kit, but confirmed the rears have New isolators and spring lower perches.

Wierd, also got New shock bolts for the front but not the rear. Seems like a mishmash of parts and all of the extras were boxed up in the box labeled for the front, hense my confusion.
I'm sure their is a reason from Lucky8.

It is what it is, front is done, rear frame is on blocks with the axle free for when I get the time this week.

Thanx again all ..........

.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 12:16 AM
  #7  
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All the bolts, isolators and perches are for the rear. The front only gets shocks and springs.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 09:19 AM
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Thanx for the info, sir.
 
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