4.6/hp24 into 4.0/hp22
If you are tearing it down that far you should send out the crank, rods, and Pistons to a shop for polishing, sizing, etc.
All the bearings should be replaced.
All the bearings should be replaced.
Now that the teardown is done and I am focusing on the meat of the 4.6 in a 4.0 swap, I watched a youtube video on various means of cleaning engines (by shops). I've never worked on a bottom end but the bake it it shake it cleaning method seems to be the preferred method of cleaning an aluminum alloy engine. My local shop has this setup. They bake the engine to dry all oil, paints, and stickers, then shoot some powder at it to blow all of the dust off, then spin it around in a washer to make it look new.
The only thing that distresses me about this process is how bare the engine has to be in order to make this happen... that part being up to me. The engines I saw in videos were a bare block. Nothing inside except maybe sleeves.
I need some tips here. Basically I can pull it all apart, take pictures, etc. But I don't want to screw up. For instance, I know I should number the cylinders. Probably the same for the main bearings. Are there any other gotchas??? Flex plate and starter gear? Rods?
The only thing that distresses me about this process is how bare the engine has to be in order to make this happen... that part being up to me. The engines I saw in videos were a bare block. Nothing inside except maybe sleeves.
I need some tips here. Basically I can pull it all apart, take pictures, etc. But I don't want to screw up. For instance, I know I should number the cylinders. Probably the same for the main bearings. Are there any other gotchas??? Flex plate and starter gear? Rods?
Just for information sake, you do not need to use another computer and if you did replace it, you would also have to replace the BCU from the same doner vehicle or the engine will not start.
I have seen many install a 4.6 inlace with a 4.0 with no issue. If you have a great mechanic with the proper equipment, he can go and reset your 4.0 computer from 4.0 to 4.6. Or you can go crazy and install larger injectors and computer changes and gain even more power.One way or the other, there won't be much of a H.P. or Torque improvement, so I would suggest no computer change, there are plenty of other areas you can spend you money on.
I have seen many install a 4.6 inlace with a 4.0 with no issue. If you have a great mechanic with the proper equipment, he can go and reset your 4.0 computer from 4.0 to 4.6. Or you can go crazy and install larger injectors and computer changes and gain even more power.One way or the other, there won't be much of a H.P. or Torque improvement, so I would suggest no computer change, there are plenty of other areas you can spend you money on.
Abran I know you do this sort of thing alot so please be patient with my dumb questions (my first time)... From what I have read I should wait to buy any lower end parts because the shop will have to tell me what size, in case they have to be "turned" (or ground down). Is that right?
Drowssap, Thanks for that. I assume a cam bearing is like a crank bearing but I will look it up.
Just for information sake, you do not need to use another computer and if you did replace it, you would also have to replace the BCU from the same doner vehicle or the engine will not start.
I have seen many install a 4.6 inlace with a 4.0 with no issue. If you have a great mechanic with the proper equipment, he can go and reset your 4.0 computer from 4.0 to 4.6. Or you can go crazy and install larger injectors and computer changes and gain even more power.One way or the other, there won't be much of a H.P. or Torque improvement, so I would suggest no computer change, there are plenty of other areas you can spend you money on.
I have seen many install a 4.6 inlace with a 4.0 with no issue. If you have a great mechanic with the proper equipment, he can go and reset your 4.0 computer from 4.0 to 4.6. Or you can go crazy and install larger injectors and computer changes and gain even more power.One way or the other, there won't be much of a H.P. or Torque improvement, so I would suggest no computer change, there are plenty of other areas you can spend you money on.
I am so glad you are back!
My 4.0 is VERY tired, so this should give me a spike in HP, economy, etc. but I am not going to change injectors, get a performace tune or cam (unless they are free, haha). Dusty has a nanocom and offered to help me get the computers on an even keel. Do you know whether I will be able to drive to him (120 miles) with the computers in 4.0 configuration, with the 4.6 and the zf4hp24 in it (I have 4.0 and zf4hp22 now)? Or will I need a trailer?
Last edited by Charlie_V; Jul 10, 2015 at 08:47 AM.
Well darn, I didn't see that one. I'd have to buy it back of my old rover now. I have, I think, 6 computer boxes that I found in various blaces (BCU, SRS, Transmission, ECU, WABCO, and one other. Maybe it is in the pile.
But from what I am reading, I should be able to stick with my computers, which will be a real work saver.
But from what I am reading, I should be able to stick with my computers, which will be a real work saver.
I'm just learning myself!
The connecting rod bearings are the ones that you might need to buy in a different size if they turn the crank, meaning they would remove material on the bearing location to make it smooth or straight.
The machine shop will have to install the cam bearings. I would definitely buy a new cam. A stock spec one would be under $150 and a high performance aftermarket under $300.
There is always the question of how far should you go on a project like this. If I understand you started off thinking easy motor swap and now it is snowballing.
I hate to say it, but while you are breaking it down to the bare block, you should consider top hating the block with Q&E in Anaheim, CA. After all this work you would hate to have a compromised block.
Since you have the 4.0, why not swap in the 4.0 Pistons on the 4.6 connecting rods for higher compression? I have not ran one myself but have prepared 3 setups for others, unfortunately none of them have completed the projects. A tech I have been working with lately built one and said the difference was noticeable. He also said you need to use ARP studs for the higher compression.
The connecting rod bearings are the ones that you might need to buy in a different size if they turn the crank, meaning they would remove material on the bearing location to make it smooth or straight.
The machine shop will have to install the cam bearings. I would definitely buy a new cam. A stock spec one would be under $150 and a high performance aftermarket under $300.
There is always the question of how far should you go on a project like this. If I understand you started off thinking easy motor swap and now it is snowballing.
I hate to say it, but while you are breaking it down to the bare block, you should consider top hating the block with Q&E in Anaheim, CA. After all this work you would hate to have a compromised block.
Since you have the 4.0, why not swap in the 4.0 Pistons on the 4.6 connecting rods for higher compression? I have not ran one myself but have prepared 3 setups for others, unfortunately none of them have completed the projects. A tech I have been working with lately built one and said the difference was noticeable. He also said you need to use ARP studs for the higher compression.
Last edited by abran; Jul 10, 2015 at 10:00 AM.
Well darn, I didn't see that one. I'd have to buy it back of my old rover now. I have, I think, 6 computer boxes that I found in various blaces (BCU, SRS, Transmission, ECU, WABCO, and one other. Maybe it is in the pile.
But from what I am reading, I should be able to stick with my computers, which will be a real work saver.
But from what I am reading, I should be able to stick with my computers, which will be a real work saver.


