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4.6/hp24 into 4.0/hp22

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  #131  
Old 07-14-2015, 02:49 PM
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I think the theory is; the rocker arm and push rods have been working together and are already fitted to one another. the rocker assembly will remain in its order (if you don't remove them from the shaft). they are left and right, there is no chance of them getting swapped, that way either. so with everything back from where it came, less chance or new wear or noise.


"if it ain't broke........"
 
  #132  
Old 07-14-2015, 02:50 PM
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And yes, I am going to go ahead and get the Crower 229 cam. In fact I am going to do that right now.
 
  #133  
Old 07-14-2015, 11:15 PM
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Default Finally to the Shop

Got everything off (but left the rocker assemblies on the heads, finger tight) and ready for the shop in the morning.

Uneducated view of things: crank bearings have visible grooves but corresponding crank portions look good. Probably just polish. Rod bearings looked good and smooth. Nothing looked copper colored. Sleeves were even.

I bagged and tagged each cap with its bearings and each piston with its bearings.

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Last edited by Charlie_V; 07-14-2015 at 11:36 PM.
  #134  
Old 07-15-2015, 06:29 AM
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man, that is one caked up lump
 
  #135  
Old 07-15-2015, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dusty1
man, that is one caked up lump
For sure. I'm glad I didn't just put head gaskets on! Hopefully, the after shot will be much better.
 
  #136  
Old 07-15-2015, 12:26 PM
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Shop has the engine, heads, crank, cam, caps, and pistons/rings. They're going to check the rocker assembly for me (left on heads).
 
  #137  
Old 07-16-2015, 11:53 AM
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I didn't read the entire post but are you installing top hat liners? If not now would be a great time.
 
  #138  
Old 07-16-2015, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by GROVERDISCO
I didn't read the entire post but are you installing top hat liners? If not now would be a great time.
Grover,

I am not installing them. The shop called and my liners are fine. I considered pinning them (and am still considering it), but the cost of machine work and flanged liners is better spent elsewhere within my budget. I've never had a problem with liners. Probably just jinxed myself.

Best,

Charlie V
 
  #139  
Old 07-16-2015, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by abran
Oil pan off, wedge wood into crank, same on the stand as in the truck.

I doubt a strap wrench will hold it. I think the spec is 150ft lbs on the pulley bolt.

I hate to be sappy as well, but I have learned a ton from this forum. Thanks guys

Finally took the crank out and it worked just as you advised. The engine work is so much easier on the stand than on the truck.
 
  #140  
Old 07-17-2015, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
Grover,

I am not installing them. The shop called and my liners are fine. I considered pinning them (and am still considering it), but the cost of machine work and flanged liners is better spent elsewhere within my budget. I've never had a problem with liners. Probably just jinxed myself.

Best,

Charlie V
It would cost you more to instal liners now, about $800 for liners and maybe $800 for machine work. I did my truck when it was apart and now never worry about the dreaded slipped liner. It's a lot of time to pull an engine to do what could have been done to have the ultimate engine just to have a new set of fancy tires and suspention lift a little sooner. Also how does your machine shop know the liners are fine? Did they heat the block and test? At the very least, pin it, your are spending a lot of money.

Best of luck!!
 


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