4.6/hp24 into 4.0/hp22
Camel Trophy
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 985
From: Southwestern Virginia
Haha, I don't blame you. Maybe I'll buy a set and give them a shot when my engine is in for a total rebuild (probably a few years from now).
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
No need to buy a set. When the time comes I'll give you a set. I've been looking for a way to trump that free turbo! I'd do it now but they are nestled in my ex, ex engine (original lump).
Last edited by Charlie_V; Feb 22, 2016 at 11:44 AM.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 985
From: Southwestern Virginia
Wow, I appreciate that Charlie! Those free turbos were a hell of an offer, too. I hate they didn't work.
I'm looking at prices. ~90 for rings, another ~40 for rod bearings and ~40 for crank bearings. I believe I can rent a hone tool from the auto parts store. Do I need new bolts?
Here's a question, would it be possible to pull the pistons out from the bottom? If that were possible, I could do the whole thing from the bottom while my axle is pulled out for new radius arms and I wouldn't have to pay for new head gaskets and having my heads re-decked.
Whenever you decide to get them out, shoot me a message. No rush on that, even if I did it this way it would probably be a year or year and a half before I did it. If the heads need to be decked and a new set of gaskets to install them from the top then it will be a year and a half to two.
I could weld the sleeves while I was in there too so they never slip.
I'm looking at prices. ~90 for rings, another ~40 for rod bearings and ~40 for crank bearings. I believe I can rent a hone tool from the auto parts store. Do I need new bolts?
Here's a question, would it be possible to pull the pistons out from the bottom? If that were possible, I could do the whole thing from the bottom while my axle is pulled out for new radius arms and I wouldn't have to pay for new head gaskets and having my heads re-decked.
Whenever you decide to get them out, shoot me a message. No rush on that, even if I did it this way it would probably be a year or year and a half before I did it. If the heads need to be decked and a new set of gaskets to install them from the top then it will be a year and a half to two.
I could weld the sleeves while I was in there too so they never slip.
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
Wow, I appreciate that Charlie! Those free turbos were a hell of an offer, too. I hate they didn't work.
I'm looking at prices. ~90 for rings, another ~40 for rod bearings and ~40 for crank bearings. I believe I can rent a hone tool from the auto parts store. Do I need new bolts?
Here's a question, would it be possible to pull the pistons out from the bottom? If that were possible, I could do the whole thing from the bottom while my axle is pulled out for new radius arms and I wouldn't have to pay for new head gaskets and having my heads re-decked.
Whenever you decide to get them out, shoot me a message. No rush on that, even if I did it this way it would probably be a year or year and a half before I did it. If the heads need to be decked and a new set of gaskets to install them from the top then it will be a year and a half to two.
I could weld the sleeves while I was in there too so they never slip.
I'm looking at prices. ~90 for rings, another ~40 for rod bearings and ~40 for crank bearings. I believe I can rent a hone tool from the auto parts store. Do I need new bolts?
Here's a question, would it be possible to pull the pistons out from the bottom? If that were possible, I could do the whole thing from the bottom while my axle is pulled out for new radius arms and I wouldn't have to pay for new head gaskets and having my heads re-decked.
Whenever you decide to get them out, shoot me a message. No rush on that, even if I did it this way it would probably be a year or year and a half before I did it. If the heads need to be decked and a new set of gaskets to install them from the top then it will be a year and a half to two.
I could weld the sleeves while I was in there too so they never slip.
The pistons would have to go out through the heads unless you remove the crank first or maybe you could pull them out enough to remove the wrist pins (or dowel or whatever it is called that connects the rod to the piston), remove the rods, and wiggle them the rest of the way out. But I am sure you couldn't get them back in except through the heads unless you had some super skinny ring compressor and probably a neck brace for yourself.
I actually tried to remove the pistons with the engine on the stand, without removing the heads. Just not possible except as noted above (maybe).
You can get the crank out from underneath, though, but removing the front cover, starter (to get back side cap bolts), and timing chain, and all of the caps. That would be REAL hard, though, Alex, laying underneath it... though having the axle out of the way would be a big help; I just got used to the pumpkin against my stomach, face, arms, etc. Maybe harder than removing the engine. On the flip side, I bet swapping that axle would be easier with the engine out... I got my engine sta
I hear you on the heads. The moment you loosen a bolt you are into gaskets, bolts/studs, plenum gasket, maybe planing. What a pain in the beehind.
I used new bolts because they are stretch bolts, but I sure as HELL didn't use new ones from my experimentation yesterday. The torque on the side bolts is only 33lbs and the cap bolts 53 (68 on ends)... I don't see how they could be really stretched unless they went though alot of heat/cool cycles; and though I am not SURE about that a mechanic told me it was so and said he reused stretch bolts all of the time without incident (on big rigs!). You would probably need new dowty washers on the side bolts (easily obtained on ebay if you plan ahead) because they seem to come apart over time.
Are you having the arms corrected for lift? HOW MUCH ($$$ and degrees)? WHERE DID YOU SEND THEM?
Last edited by Charlie_V; Feb 22, 2016 at 01:47 PM.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 248
Likes: 25
From: Troy Michigan
I'd planned to just pull the fuel pump relay or the connection to the fuel pump and let the starter prime it for me. I also ordered new spark plug wires (Kingaborn 8mm RED) and I'm going to get some champion 318s today to replace my Bosch +4s.
Why do you have to pull it again? I hope it wasn't a bad injector causing a cascade of badness.
Why do you have to pull it again? I hope it wasn't a bad injector causing a cascade of badness.
If so leave the plugs out while you spin it over with the starter, it will spin faster and if there is any fuel in the bores it will blow it out the spark plug holes.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 985
From: Southwestern Virginia
Haha, misery loves company.
I don't have an engine stand (yet), though I'll probably end up getting one some time any way for a Chevelle project that is hopefully going to be beginning some time in the relatively near future. LS swap with a 4 speed manual for a daily driver
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Reusing stretch bolts on big rigs sounds terrifying. Especially with the amount of crystallization that often happens on big diesel engines. I'm not nearly that brave.
I haven't sent them yet (have to save the money first... college). When I do I'm going to send them to RTE. I already talked to the guy on the phone and told him about my plans for the truck. He sounded really interested in the bobbing, chopping, and moving the axle back. He said that when I was ready he could just make the rear arms longer so the axle is moved back however much I wanted and he would correct them however much they needed for my lift. He said by the time I was ready to do mine that they would have a little bit different (and improved) design ready to ship, and that he wouldn't charge me any more for the lengthening. Just the normal $375. I'll also be getting my longer brake lines and ABS lines from him, then I'll just have to have a local driveshaft shop make me up a longer (and stronger while we're at it) rear driveshaft with a double cardon and the rotoflex replaced with a u-joint.
I don't have an engine stand (yet), though I'll probably end up getting one some time any way for a Chevelle project that is hopefully going to be beginning some time in the relatively near future. LS swap with a 4 speed manual for a daily driver
.Reusing stretch bolts on big rigs sounds terrifying. Especially with the amount of crystallization that often happens on big diesel engines. I'm not nearly that brave.
I haven't sent them yet (have to save the money first... college). When I do I'm going to send them to RTE. I already talked to the guy on the phone and told him about my plans for the truck. He sounded really interested in the bobbing, chopping, and moving the axle back. He said that when I was ready he could just make the rear arms longer so the axle is moved back however much I wanted and he would correct them however much they needed for my lift. He said by the time I was ready to do mine that they would have a little bit different (and improved) design ready to ship, and that he wouldn't charge me any more for the lengthening. Just the normal $375. I'll also be getting my longer brake lines and ABS lines from him, then I'll just have to have a local driveshaft shop make me up a longer (and stronger while we're at it) rear driveshaft with a double cardon and the rotoflex replaced with a u-joint.
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
That's awesome advice. Will do.
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Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 248
From: Longview, Texas
Haha, misery loves company.
I don't have an engine stand (yet), though I'll probably end up getting one some time any way for a Chevelle project that is hopefully going to be beginning some time in the relatively near future. LS swap with a 4 speed manual for a daily driver.
Reusing stretch bolts on big rigs sounds terrifying. Especially with the amount of crystallization that often happens on big diesel engines. I'm not nearly that brave.
I haven't sent them yet (have to save the money first... college). When I do I'm going to send them to RTE. I already talked to the guy on the phone and told him about my plans for the truck. He sounded really interested in the bobbing, chopping, and moving the axle back. He said that when I was ready he could just make the rear arms longer so the axle is moved back however much I wanted and he would correct them however much they needed for my lift. He said by the time I was ready to do mine that they would have a little bit different (and improved) design ready to ship, and that he wouldn't charge me any more for the lengthening. Just the normal $375. I'll also be getting my longer brake lines and ABS lines from him, then I'll just have to have a local driveshaft shop make me up a longer (and stronger while we're at it) rear driveshaft with a double cardon and the rotoflex replaced with a u-joint.
I don't have an engine stand (yet), though I'll probably end up getting one some time any way for a Chevelle project that is hopefully going to be beginning some time in the relatively near future. LS swap with a 4 speed manual for a daily driver
.Reusing stretch bolts on big rigs sounds terrifying. Especially with the amount of crystallization that often happens on big diesel engines. I'm not nearly that brave.
I haven't sent them yet (have to save the money first... college). When I do I'm going to send them to RTE. I already talked to the guy on the phone and told him about my plans for the truck. He sounded really interested in the bobbing, chopping, and moving the axle back. He said that when I was ready he could just make the rear arms longer so the axle is moved back however much I wanted and he would correct them however much they needed for my lift. He said by the time I was ready to do mine that they would have a little bit different (and improved) design ready to ship, and that he wouldn't charge me any more for the lengthening. Just the normal $375. I'll also be getting my longer brake lines and ABS lines from him, then I'll just have to have a local driveshaft shop make me up a longer (and stronger while we're at it) rear driveshaft with a double cardon and the rotoflex replaced with a u-joint.
Winching
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 676
Likes: 37
From: Wylie, TX
Jamieb I am glad to encourage you and you are encouraging me! I used to get a new car every year and the first time I turned a wrench on one was in 2000 when I decided to change the oil on my brand new Rover and drained the transmission fluid instead! Needless to say, it was several years before I approached my truck with a wrench again. I've grown to love this old truck but the truth is that, once it was paid off I just refused to get rid of it. It has been driven by every member of the family and past family including kids, and somehow never been seriously hurt in any accident, and it sat unused in my garage for five years after a head gasket failure. Now, 16 years after I bought it, I've taught myself to do most things and--sometimes to my regret--don't shy away from things that I don't know how to do. I'm a lawyer not a mechanic, but I've accumulated engine stands, a crane, parts for three rovers, etc. None of the mechanics in my small city will even touch it and the closest dealership is a couple of hours away. I have to say that the latest and greatest addition to my skillset is to actually use the RAVE instead of hit and miss guesstimation.
But, without a doubt, the greatest resource and really the main reason I still have my Disco is the information on Land Rover Forums.
Why not a Toyota? I got a parking ticket last week and the meter maid identified my rover as a Toyota. Haha. I'm older and when I was young, Toyota and Datsun were considered sub par, too small, underpowered, and cheap. By the time Toyota was the thing to get, it was also so expensive that even a Land Rover seemed reasonably priced. Nonetheless, I had a new Toyota 4 runner--I think 2009 or 10--with all of the stuff for a year but the interior felt like a car so I got rid of it. I live in a city of about 90,000 not close to a larger city, and maybe because we don't have a dealership, there are very few Land Rovers here and the ones that are stand out. I only see four or five in a regular basis and we always notice each other. Toyota people don't do that. A very well heeled peer looked at my Discovery about a year ago and said, "wow, Charlie. A Land Rover. What did that cost, about 70k?". Um, yeah, idiot...for fifteen of them! Of course, since I bought mine new and have put things on it I probably do have a 40 or 50 thousand in mine but I can't think of it that way or I'll just cry.
Mine has 146000 miles on it and everything is perfect (either because it stood the test of time or I have already replaced it) except for the engine. I know Europeans consider THE 4.0/4.6 to be the small block Chevy of Europe but my response to that is that we should send them some small block Chevy engines to tinker with. I wish I had the know how to put a Chevy engine in mine. The engine, head gaskets, cooling... the engine bay, basically... has been the sole weak point of my Disco. A retired military friend of mine is formulating a plan to transplant a Chevy engine into our Discos on the cheap and if that works he will be my hero.
Good luck with your water pump!
My newer engine is on the crane in the driveway right now and will be in tonight, for better or worse.
But, without a doubt, the greatest resource and really the main reason I still have my Disco is the information on Land Rover Forums.
Why not a Toyota? I got a parking ticket last week and the meter maid identified my rover as a Toyota. Haha. I'm older and when I was young, Toyota and Datsun were considered sub par, too small, underpowered, and cheap. By the time Toyota was the thing to get, it was also so expensive that even a Land Rover seemed reasonably priced. Nonetheless, I had a new Toyota 4 runner--I think 2009 or 10--with all of the stuff for a year but the interior felt like a car so I got rid of it. I live in a city of about 90,000 not close to a larger city, and maybe because we don't have a dealership, there are very few Land Rovers here and the ones that are stand out. I only see four or five in a regular basis and we always notice each other. Toyota people don't do that. A very well heeled peer looked at my Discovery about a year ago and said, "wow, Charlie. A Land Rover. What did that cost, about 70k?". Um, yeah, idiot...for fifteen of them! Of course, since I bought mine new and have put things on it I probably do have a 40 or 50 thousand in mine but I can't think of it that way or I'll just cry.
Mine has 146000 miles on it and everything is perfect (either because it stood the test of time or I have already replaced it) except for the engine. I know Europeans consider THE 4.0/4.6 to be the small block Chevy of Europe but my response to that is that we should send them some small block Chevy engines to tinker with. I wish I had the know how to put a Chevy engine in mine. The engine, head gaskets, cooling... the engine bay, basically... has been the sole weak point of my Disco. A retired military friend of mine is formulating a plan to transplant a Chevy engine into our Discos on the cheap and if that works he will be my hero.
Good luck with your water pump!
My newer engine is on the crane in the driveway right now and will be in tonight, for better or worse.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I have a 99 d2 that had a 4.0 w/o sai. It had issues to say the least, previous owner tried to repair a blown head gasket with block and cooling system crack sealer. Not sure what brand but it was a mess, plugged everything. bottem line is the motor ended up being toasted. I picked up a clean 4.6 w/sai out of a 2001 range rover. I removed the sai completely and plugged the ports in the cylinder heads. I used my computer components and wiring harness from the 99 thus no connector, sensor and no history of the engine ever having sai. I am running with the iac valve and mass air flow sensor from the 4.6. after dealing with the security system demobilization ( due to swapping ecu,bcu,slabs ect). I have 5640 miles on the build now with no three amigos, no overheating and more power than I expected just going from a 4.0 to a 4.6. I had to use the exhaust from the 4.0 also. Everything bolted up with out any issues. So far my transmission has held up ok, I plan on upgrading to hp24 as soon as its done being rebuilt. I can rebuild an engine but transmissions are out of my league. And in closing, yes it passed smog in California! Good luck and never give up.