Does anyone have a recommendation for the manufacture of the head gasket kit? (Land Rover, BOSCH, REINZ, etc.)

 

for what it's worth I looked at the land Rover head gasket kit and I think it was around $350 & $95 for the bolts. I went with BA I think the kit was $170 & another $80 for the bolts, and I was surprised a lot of the gasket I recieved were Land rover gaskets. You basically save enough money to have the heads decked.

 

Well I pulled the drivers side head to see what I could find. And - Good news! - blown head gasket, not a dropped sleeve.


Notice the oblong shape "kink" in the gasket along the coolant jacket.


A closer look reveals that the gasket is compromised.

Take a look at my valve cover / rocker assembly. This is with 231,000 miles and usiong Moble 1 synthetic and K&N filter for the entire life of the motor. I am convinced that once I clean this up and change the O2 sensors I will get another 75K miles.







I checked the ridge at the top of the cylinders and I was very suprised to find very little wear in the cylinder walls.

 

Before I start the re-assembly of the motor, I would like to check the spray pattern / flow of the injectors. Does anyone know if there is a way to perform a bench test for the fuel injectors?

Also, I was wondering if anyone has any words of advise for makeing sure I have good seal / leak free assembly. The last thing I want is to put this thing back together to find a leaking valve cover, valley pan, etc.

 

I have seen it done with unbolting the injectors from the rails and placing them in Mason Jars. I don't remember how it was all done and was thinking man this is not safe at all.

Here is one way of seeing the spray pattern. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aT4S1lIBAY

 

I am quite surprised that with 230k that you can still see the crosshatch hone marks on the cylinder walls. Just a few ideas if you want this to be the last time, @ 230k I think you are going to have to break down and mill the heads this time.
You might want to put the money spent for new head bolts into an ARP stud kit. Cylinder head stud kit put much less preasure on the threaded bolt holes in the aluminum block compared to using a steel head bolts, because the torque is between the nut and the stud not the block and the bolt. And as much as people like to agrue about it the head bolt holes tend to crack in the block, if that cause the liners to slip is open for debate. As far as oil leaks a very, very thin coat of black RTV (almost like gasket cement) on gaskets seems to work for me.

 

Who sells the ARP stud kit? I heard it is the same kit as a buick motor?

 

[quote=ralphobell;261427]I have seen it done with unbolting the injectors from the rails and placing them in Mason Jars. I don't remember how it was all done and was thinking man this is not safe at all.

I have seen this as well as others,

I'm thinking of doing something like this one. Anyone try this before?

http://youtu.be/3mnA0cnXckg

http://youtu.be/dp-ECEpN52k

I am skeptical of the effectiveness plus I know that if you put too much voltage to them you can fry them. Does anyone know the voltage range on the land rover injectors?

 

Part # 124-4003 for Rover but verify that number they also have a 124-4002 which i believe is for the original buick 215. they can be found at ARP-bolts.com | The Official Site of Automotive Racing Products, Inc. page 37 in there catolog will explain the advantage of head stud vs head bolts better than I can.

 

See, and you were getting worried the block was toast!