94 Disco rear bearing problem
Hey Guys,
My 94 Disco is slowing leaking grease or something out of the right wheel. It's definitely not brake fluid, so I assume that it's the bearing going out. Truck has 71K. l
Not sure what parts to look for, or where to get them. Would a local store like Napa or AutoZone carry the necessary parts or do I have to order online or from LR?
I found this kit, not sure if it's the correct thing though:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...aring_kit.html
Any help appreciate, thanks.
My 94 Disco is slowing leaking grease or something out of the right wheel. It's definitely not brake fluid, so I assume that it's the bearing going out. Truck has 71K. l
Not sure what parts to look for, or where to get them. Would a local store like Napa or AutoZone carry the necessary parts or do I have to order online or from LR?
I found this kit, not sure if it's the correct thing though:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...aring_kit.html
Any help appreciate, thanks.
With Rovers, you never assume anything, crawl under and see if it is grease or brake fluid. If it is grease, that doesn't mean the bearing are gone, just blew a seal.
How long since the bearings have been greased or replaced??
How long since the bearings have been greased or replaced??
Forget the kit. Way too much money.
To replace the seal all you need is a new seal, and if you want to be compulsive a new lock tab washer for the hub bearing lock nuts and a drive flange gasket. But the lock tab washer can usually be flattened out and reused once or twice, and something like Right Stuff saves you having to buy the gasket, so all you really need is the hub seal (I suggest the RTC3511 double lip.
If the hubs have never been gone through, I'd suggest rebuilding them. To do them all you'd need:
4 RTC3511 hub seals (get 1 extra in case you mess one up) about $4 each
8 Timken SET37 or SKF BR37 bearings (2 per hub and about $13-$15 each)
4 lock tabs
4 drive flange gaskets
Some loctite
A pound or two of wheel bearing grease, I use Castrol Pyroplex blue. If you don't off-road any good wheel bearing grease will do though. I use the castrol because it get's even tackier when exposed to moisture.
BTW, what I listed is what you need for all 4 hubs. 1/2 if if you only do the rear.
To replace the seal all you need is a new seal, and if you want to be compulsive a new lock tab washer for the hub bearing lock nuts and a drive flange gasket. But the lock tab washer can usually be flattened out and reused once or twice, and something like Right Stuff saves you having to buy the gasket, so all you really need is the hub seal (I suggest the RTC3511 double lip.
If the hubs have never been gone through, I'd suggest rebuilding them. To do them all you'd need:
4 RTC3511 hub seals (get 1 extra in case you mess one up) about $4 each
8 Timken SET37 or SKF BR37 bearings (2 per hub and about $13-$15 each)
4 lock tabs
4 drive flange gaskets
Some loctite
A pound or two of wheel bearing grease, I use Castrol Pyroplex blue. If you don't off-road any good wheel bearing grease will do though. I use the castrol because it get's even tackier when exposed to moisture.
BTW, what I listed is what you need for all 4 hubs. 1/2 if if you only do the rear.
Last edited by antichrist; Jun 27, 2009 at 08:15 PM.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9002D.cfm
Order this kit times 2, one kit for each side, if you need to replace wheel bearing ALWAYS do them in pairs.
Now for some edumacation on Rovers...check your axle breather and see if it is clogged.
http://roverparts.com/Parts/FTC2176.cfm
This is what it looks like, it screws into the axle on the drivers side, when it gets clogged pressure will build up inside the axle and it will leak out of the weakes point, weather it is your pinion seal on the differential or a oil seal on your axle shaft.
So jack up the rear of the truck and remove the axle breather, take it apart and try and clean it, if you cant clean it then put it back and order a new one.
And whatever you do check the fluid level in the rear differential.
Order this kit times 2, one kit for each side, if you need to replace wheel bearing ALWAYS do them in pairs.
Now for some edumacation on Rovers...check your axle breather and see if it is clogged.
http://roverparts.com/Parts/FTC2176.cfm
This is what it looks like, it screws into the axle on the drivers side, when it gets clogged pressure will build up inside the axle and it will leak out of the weakes point, weather it is your pinion seal on the differential or a oil seal on your axle shaft.
So jack up the rear of the truck and remove the axle breather, take it apart and try and clean it, if you cant clean it then put it back and order a new one.
And whatever you do check the fluid level in the rear differential.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9002D.cfm
Order this kit times 2, one kit for each side, if you need to replace wheel bearing ALWAYS do them in pairs.
Order this kit times 2, one kit for each side, if you need to replace wheel bearing ALWAYS do them in pairs.
Also, what would be a safe estimate on how long it will take to replace the rear bearings? I've never done this task before.
Thanks,
- P
Just did this on all 4 wheels. You don't need to replace the bearings unless they are actually bad. The only tools you need are sockets (27mm for lug nuts, 13 mm 12-pt for caliper bolts, 17(15? can't remember) mm for hub bolts) and the Hub Nut tool, which is a 2 1/16" socket. And a chisel or large screwdriver to bend the lock washer. I use a seal puller to get the old seals out but you could get by without one. It really helps to have something like a bearing race & seal driver kit from harbor freight if you have to replace the bearings. If you don't want to get covered in grease a bearing packer is really nice too. Check out the RAVE CD for the procedure - it's very straight forward.
Last edited by smokeyrabbit; Jul 20, 2009 at 01:23 PM.
If you have never done this job before I highly recommend taking it in with your parts, any muffler shop can do the work and will cost you around $100 for both sides.
Then after you get the truck back home remove your axle breather and make sure it is not clogged.
Then after you get the truck back home remove your axle breather and make sure it is not clogged.
Last year they did my fronts for $100 with my kits.
If they are doing all four wheels then $300 is fine, but not for just one axle, they are trying to rape you.
Dont rule out any other kind of shop either, call around but somebody will do it for cheap, all your paying for is the labor on a 3 hr job and no muffler shop gets $100 per hour for labor, they are closer to $40 per hour.
The dealer is $120 per hour.
A indie shop should be in the $50-80 range.
If you are really stuck and want to tackle this on your own AntiChrist has done this job many times before and would be a better help than me, I can do it I just choose not to.
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