if your going thru 3 quarts in a couple hour, the blue in the rear window is not window tint.
honestly, you need to pull your plugs, there should be nothing but sludge on them.

 

Yeah, you may very well be looking at more than a head gasket leak with that level of consumption.

I'm concerned that your rings or valve seals are damaged. You could easily end up replacing your head gaskets and it not solving the problem.

Also, you could just have a bad oil leak that only pushes oil out when the motor is running.

 

Again, this sounds like you maybe doing a repair that may not fix the problem, I would spend 100 bucks and get an opinion from a reputable mechanic, It might save you much more money doing the right job.

if i had to do it myself, pull all the plugs looking for a bad ones, "oil fouled spark plug"' i would really look for oil leaks, which means not drips on the driveway, but large patches of oil running down the engine, next if i was really worried, i would drain the oil through a coffee filter and look for metal shavings, was you have gone through all that you should have an idea of the issues.

personally i would spent the 150 for an expert opion if i wasn't 100 percent sure.

 

I agree with doyle. I'd either do more troubleshooting or pay a pro to tell me what's wrong.

 

Changing head gaskets is a rite of passage.
Carry on

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

 

i am an experienced mechanic just not with land rovers. i am a ford guy and have rebuilt many ford engines. but i am new to land rovers. i do need to run a compression check and will this weekend. the oil and coolant loss is internal and there is no coolant in the oil.now the oil loss is related to engine rpm so it is a pressurized bleed. is there a place in a rover where pressurized oil could enter the intake or cylinder besides the headgasket?

 

it possible that it could be pulling oil from the pvc system is the plastic spiral still in the valve cover?

 

I was thinking PCV system also, but after googling it the PCV system seems to rarely cause problems in the Disco.

Where's DiscoMike when we need him!

To the OP - I've seen some of the older dudes around here recommend the head gasket kit from Atlantic British. I personally would shop hard for the toughest high performance gaskets I could find. They tend to fail around the very thin parts of the gasket toward the very front and back. That sid, after shopping bit there aren't many options.

Couple of links:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...rmarket-37517/ (especially the third post)
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC4082BK.cfm

Then, because you have the studs you need a very accurate torque wrench. So you may want to look into whether your wrench is up to task. Be super careful not to overtorque - these blocks are notorious for stripping out threads when replacing HG, and it does happen even with the studs.

If I were doing head gaskets, I'd replace a lot of stuff while I had it apart. Cam/lifters, possibly rockers, timing chain, oil pump, water pump, coils, wires, plugs, and probly crankshaft position sensor (just cause it'll be easier to get to while everything is apart). Most of this is obvious, but the cam/lifters wear pretty badly on the motors and trucks seem to really benefit from a fresh camshaft. That said, since your problem isn't a cut and dry head gasket issue, I'd be worried about throwing $1000 worth of parts into a fubar'd block.

 

I am not interested in doing much more Than head gaskets and if that takes care of my issues then a timing chain this is just a sometime driver and minor offroader. I don't want to invest a ton of money. in fact after i pull the heads if i don't see a clear sign of what is going on i will probably just find a used motor.