ABS Fault
I have the below faults on my ABS, from an ABS Amigo. They are intermittent, they show up every once in a while, which makes me think it is actually lose wire or similar. I also have the red brake light on intermittently.
Seems like the fault would be in the wiring near near the ABS unit?
Any thoughts?
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
045:Rear Left sensor output low
047:Rear Right sensor output low
Rear Right Sensor Bad Output
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
Seems like the fault would be in the wiring near near the ABS unit?
Any thoughts?
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
045:Rear Left sensor output low
047:Rear Right sensor output low
Rear Right Sensor Bad Output
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
For the sensor faults, the problem is often the connector where the sensor pigtail connects to the wiring harness. Best4x4 advocates splicing in butt connectors to address the known problems with the connectors, but I tried something even less invasive and it's worked for me.
Locate the connector (the rears are easy once you remove the wheel), disconnect it. A flat blade screwdriver is useful to pry apart the two halves of the connector. Then, using needle nose pliers, try crimping the metal parts of the female half of the connector slightly to improve contact. I do still get faults intermittently but infrequently.
As for the Shuttle Valve Electric failure code, do Option B.
Locate the connector (the rears are easy once you remove the wheel), disconnect it. A flat blade screwdriver is useful to pry apart the two halves of the connector. Then, using needle nose pliers, try crimping the metal parts of the female half of the connector slightly to improve contact. I do still get faults intermittently but infrequently.
As for the Shuttle Valve Electric failure code, do Option B.
Last edited by mln01; May 21, 2020 at 12:52 PM.
I also recommend a set of 2 wire trailer plugs if you still want the ABS sensors to have connectors vs being solid with the 3M butt splice connectors. Option B should take care of the Shuttle Valve fault.
In TX or hot climates the OEM connectors will basically just crumble away. Whatever you do you just need to repair those bad connectors be it with 3M butt splices, 2 wire plugs, or even fuel injector harnesses. You just want a good solid connection on the 2 wires. Polarity is not an issue. Just make sure the connections are good and solid and sealed from the elements.
In TX or hot climates the OEM connectors will basically just crumble away. Whatever you do you just need to repair those bad connectors be it with 3M butt splices, 2 wire plugs, or even fuel injector harnesses. You just want a good solid connection on the 2 wires. Polarity is not an issue. Just make sure the connections are good and solid and sealed from the elements.
Last edited by Best4x4; May 21, 2020 at 01:37 PM.
Thanks for the response. I did the option B last year and it is mostly effective, about 1-3 times a year for a short while the three amigos pops back up. I replaced the master cylinder and bled the brakes last year, I wonder if that caused my new problem, disturbing something while bleeding.
Ill take a look at the connectors.
Ill take a look at the connectors.
Did you replace the shuttle valve switches when you performed Option B? I personally replace them while I'm in there. 90% of the time if the 3 Amigos come on & then go off with a key cycle = shuttle valve switches, brittle wiring to them, or a bad ground with Option B mod.
If changing out connectors it might not be a bad idea to lengthen the wires as well. I am constantly ripping my rears apart when off-roading and just haven't gotten around to lengthening/improving them.
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seaosrover
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Oct 23, 2010 01:48 AM



