Different Army than me I'll bet. The ABS light should have no effect on passing a smog test (those lights would probably fail you on an MOT test, but you don't have to worry about those in this country) But call them to make sure.

 

Well they are back,my best friend's the Amigo are back after three days of trouble free driving.scanner say's shuttle valve switch,again.I was able to clear them,but tested the shuttle switch with the scanner and it didn't pass,hmmmmmm,well off the the drawing board again.

 

i ran the codes thanks to don's help with scanner, and last time i got shuttle valve and right front sensor low.

now i get one fault, right front sensor no output.

i did the option b, so i guess that works for now, i think my shuttle valves still leak so i dont know how long that will last.

since i have this front right output issue, i ordered an abs sensor. as i posted earlier anyone do this repair?

it now comes with extra long wire and you need to plug into abs ecu. i think land rover decided the plug was not a good idea in engine bay. so this wire bypasses that plug.

as i mentioned i think some techs splice and use old plug design.....has anyone been down this path before?

 

I recently replaced the left front abs sensor on my 2004 Discovery due to the wire being cut. I spliced the new sensor to the original sensor wire near the connector in the engine compartment. I soldered the leads and used several layers of heat shrink tubing. This repair has worked fine for me. However, the first replacement sensor that I installed was a Britpart sensor. The shaft on the sensor is too long and rubbed on the ring inside the hub until it failed. I replaced that sensor with a Wabco sensor. The Wabco sensor shaft is the correct length. In hindsight I probably should have just spliced the original sensor where the wire was cut but that was in the wheel well and would be exposed to slightly more water and mud more than in the engine compartment.

 

these abs sensor wires are very thin, 20 gauge or so, and are subject to interference etc, and splicing these wires comes with issues. a techie told me never to splice these type of sensor wires , that is probably why the sensor wire now comes extra long to by pass the connector in engine compartment and they want you to tap directly into ecu.

i looked in passenger compartment footwell, and it was a mess of wires. i found the slab edu. but no idea which white wire goes to front left sensor.

without knowing this and without knowing how to puncture thru firewall, i decided to splice against my instincts. i had no choice.

if someone or some book tells me which white wire is the left front abs sensor then i would tap directly into ecu.

there are many white wires there by the way.

i replaced the sensor and spliced in the engine compartment near the fender rail.

splicing these type of wires is not recommended, it may work or may not or can be intermittent.

i read the wsm but it didnt explain to me which white wires go where on the slab ecu.

until that information is given, splicing is the default solution.

 

one more note for future splicers:

for sensors and these type of wires, use pieces of alum foil to wrap the spliced are to protect from interference. you can put foil inside the heat shrink etc.....

i do this with high gauge wires that are sensor related, like speedo wires etc

 

I did option b over year ago with no issues. Until recently when the 3 amigos came back. I took it to my mechanic to have it scanned and it showed up as SVS fault... Any ideas what to do now??

 

He also said he tested the SVS and it came back as failed. Does it need to be replaced?

 

Just FYI: In NJ, you can't have *any* dash warning lights on whatsoever, despite being unrelated to emissions, in order to pass.


Have you checked to see if the bolt where the wire is now grounded to is still making good contact? I know some people have had the 3 amigos re-appear, only to find out that it was the ground that had come loose.

-Anthony

 

to the poster who has return of abs faults svs issue....

i would recheck my wiring like the above poster said, check grounds etc, make sure wires not frayed etc. then what i would do is order another shuttle switch and also the o rings that comes with the modulator. most often brake fluid leaks through the orings causing the faults and eventually shuttle valve failure.

i believe the orings are black and tiny, you need to completely remove the abs unit from the car, flip it upside down, remove the switch, then remove those 2 plungers in there with a small circlip and then remove that plunger. inside there you will find a small oring to replace.

these orings are pricy and something like $35-40 for 2 orings and 2 circlips.....pretty expensive for an oring.