OK guys my 3 amigos showed themselves to me last week. Right now they are intermittent (they go away each time the vehicle is re-started) but I'm looking forward to working on this problem shortly.

This is my 3rd read through of all the posts over a few days and think I'm prepared to tackle this job. I asked my mechanic how much he would charge me for fixing the 3 amigos and he said it would be about $1,100. That is enough incentive for me to do the job.

I took the vehicle to the mechanic shop since he said he would read the fault for me at no charge. The mechanic did not have an ABS Amigo rather he said it's the expensive professional Land Rover computer. He hooked up his computer and gave me the printout which read:

03 DISCO
FAULT CODE DIAGNOSTICS
SHUTTLE VALVE SWTICH ELECTRICAL FAILURE. FAULT LOGGED

Does this mean I have to buy a shuttle valve from Atlantic British for $70 and replace the existing one? Or does the shuttle valve come in a kit of 2 like shown in the photos?

2nd question: I did some research and the quick disconnects can be purchased from Amazon in many different gauges. What wire gauge should I buy? From the photos, the wires look like 14 or 16 AWG. Does the wire gauge even matter?

Last question Is the purpose of Option B to bypass the circuit board, since there is something "funky" with the board causing the 3 amigos to light up? I assume the bypass preserves the TC, ABS and HDC functions but will it hide real faults if they do occur?

Guys thanks in advance for your responses to the above

Al
2003 D2 SE7

 

If you've read through this sticky, you probably have a good idea of what you need to do. I am an engineer, but candidly not a great auto mechanic. I successfully performed the option B fix in an afternoon. It took me longer to bleed the brakes to my liking than to perform the fix.

I bought the Falconworks kit with the new seals, just to be sure I did this once and for all. Glad I did, because obviously the seals had failed and leaked brake fluid. I also bought the exact same trailer jumper from Advance Auto Parts that the sticky author recommended. I completely removed the modulator, as there was no way I was going to get the screws out with it in place - my admiration to those who have been successful at this.

Print out the instructions with pictures for reference, and read them several times before beginning. Have a digital multimeter on hand - you only need to learn a couple of simple functions for this fix - you can find out how on the Internet.

I made the repair, and have been amigo free ever since. Total cost maybe $100 including brake fluid, and of course 3-4 hours of my time.

PM me and I'll give my phone number if you want to discuss or need moral support!

Good luck!

DRW

 

Yes, the ABS, TC, hill descent functions will work after performing the bypass. In fact, it's cool to actually test/feel these functions after performing the mod! Provides a lot more confidence in your Rover!

DRW

 

With temps dropping to as low as -26c and daytime highs below -10c the 3 amigos have not surfaced at all. The fluid is not getting warm enough to change its viscosity. That indicates to me that one could delay the inevitable during warmer weather by using a higher viscosity brake fluid.

Any ideas or similar experience? Way too cold to work on this SVS at this time - had to take my gloves off to do something on the bike in the garage and my fingers froze to the metal!

 

Has anyone used this thing? I don't know if this guy is blowing smoke or what. Below is a link to his website. Also if anyone has used thid does it work?

http://www.rswsolutions.com/

 

This is the ABS Amigo that you've probably read about on this sticky. It is the real deal, and works like a charm.

DRW

 

OK, my 2003 Disco is now parked inside my garage and I am ready to operate on this baby.

DonW, one of the Senior Members was nice enough to take my call and mentally prepare me for undertaking this job.

Don't want to bother him with these last few questions:
1). I understand I have the option of buying the parts from Falconworks (the kit includes the SVS assembly (two white plunger switches, the black part where the switches go and the connector) and SVS valve seals for $140 OR I can buy the SVS assembly from American British for $70 and forget about the seals.

==> Which option would you guys go with? I'm hesitant because when I talked with Alan from Falcon he said they manufactured they parts which came from China

2). What is the best brake fluid to use for the Rover?

==> I understand this question implies I will do brake bleeding which means complete removal of the ABS modulator.

Many thanks

Al

 

Hopefully a few of the other members will weigh in, but here's my two cents:

1) Go with the Falconworks kit - I'd lay odds your seals are leaking. Ay any rate, it's cheap preventive maintenance since you'll be tearing into the system anyway. Personally, I've come to expect that 80% of any and all products I touch originate (or have components that originate) in China. If we were discussing valve parts to be installed in a nuclear plant, I'd want to audit the QA program. Rubber seals for a car part? Not so concerned. But that's me...

2) You can check the Rave manual for recommended brake fluid, or a related post. Again, personally, I don't think there's much difference in the various brands. I do think DOT 4 is recommended, though.

Again, good luck - it's not that difficult to perform if you follow the excellent instructions and pictures in the post.

DOn

 

Don

Thanks for the reply. I didn't want to bug you (wanted to reserve it for more important stuff) but you replied anyways!

I just did it. I removed the ABS modulator. Did it the long way by removing the brake lines and pulling out the entire ABS unit. No big deal!

Took less than an hour to remove. Upon inspection of parts, I believe the seals are leaking. I will buy the Falconworks kit tomorrow.

Some observations:
1. No need to remove black breather hose
2. No need to reposition power steering reservoir
3. No need to remove brake hose clamps
4. If you're doing it this way and choosing Option B, no need to remove the 8 bolts (6 mm hex) attaching the modulator half of the ABS unit. They are very snug and tight and I just wasted my time removing them.

Hopefully the parts arrive later this week and I'll complete the project next weekend.

P.S. I agree with you - my hats off to those people who were able to do this project by just removing the modulator side. There is hardly any room and the bolts are just snug. You will need strong hands and fingers to complete it this way. The downside of doing it this way is you will not be able to see if the valve seals are leaking. You'll be able to gauge by looking at the SVS switches, but the brake fluid cling to the walls of the assembly. Just my 2 cents...

Don, thanks again and to everyone on this forum

Upon completion I'll PayPal Josh, he really deserves it

Al
2003 D2 SE7

 

Yup mine are on now, ALL the time sat in garage for a week, never had any issues, pull it out the garage and drive down the street 200' stop at the stop sign and blam hello Amigo's . So I have read this thread back to front and many others like it. I have read Josh's repair and have decided to order a ABS Amigo V1 code reader and start from there. While checking over my connections to make sure all were tight and clean I noticed the yellow and green wire had a small 3/4" section of shrink tube on it and two of the upper left bolts were loose (1/8" inch gap) to the point were I could undo them freely by hand so maybe at one time it might have been worked on. I also noticed that the parking/brake light never comes on when the parking brake is pulled up, so I am thinking there might be an issue there too?