I have just installed the Falcon Works Kit P/N FW66 with seals/cir-clips, and SVS assembly. I am connecting my "homemade" 2-conductor wiring with a set of waterproof 2-conductor connectors I had extra from my fog light repairs to the new SVS assembly. A couple points I would like to add that may help others.

1) I was a little anxious when I was not getting 3.00 reading expected at my connector with no plungers pushed. Make sure if you use a multimeter like the one pictured in the notes that you use the 20K setting on the Ohms scale. At settings 200 & 2000 I was only getting a reading of "1" with no plungers pushed. Readings now of 3.00 with no plungers pushed, 2.00 with one plunger pushed, and finally 1.01 with both plungers pushed once I selected the 20K setting. I know we are actually reading 3000, 2000, & 1000 ohms, so it would make sense to use the 20K setting, so these numbers would show up, but FYI for those who may not use a multimeter a lot.

2) If making your own connector like I did, check the readings to the connector once soldiered to the SVS wires, and then test again with the connector connected and test across to the two bare wire ends that will connect to your truck to make sure you have a good cable connection all the way through your connector since you made it yourself. One less thing to worry about once you get it in your truck.

I will tackle reinstalling the ABS unit tomorrow and work on the bleeding process. Thanks again Josh, and all others for adding your experience to make this a relatively painless procedure compared to some other D2 repairs.

 

Update:

I installed all the goodies back in the truck today/tonight, and I did a brake bleed. Cleared codes with ABS Amigo again just for good measure. Then tested Hill Descent on some downgrades and could hear the ABS kick in. In reviewing this project I read that the rear brake lights come on during this braking, did not know that, good to know and does make sense, just never thought about it. Anyway, I did this three times on the downgrade, and then in Lo- D and then Lo-3 on wet pavement sped up to about 30 MPH and let off and let the Hill Descent activate to slow me down. Again, I could hear it kicking in and no 3 Amigos. Also, doing it at night I could see in the side mirror where the brake lights were coming on, so good confirmation of the ABS braking as well.

I need to do an additional brake bleed, as the peddle is a little spongy, but after pumping once, it comes up. So, it seems like we are good to go in regard to the ABS world. One point, it looks like my wiring from my connector to the ground and back to the ABS harness are a little long. I was not sure exactly how much I would need there, since I made up my own 2-conductor wiring connector, so I think I will go back and shorten up the wiring coming out of the harness and splice it in a little further up the harness away from the plug that goes into the modulator, and shorten the ground as well to clean things up. I found a good pic in an earlier post in this thread that shows a good length that I must of missed or forgotten when making my connector wiring side to the truck. All in all SUCCESS it would appear.

Also, note, I tested my SVS that I took out and it tested good, so I will keep it. Looks like the bypass wiring took care of the problem in this case, and the replacement seals.

 

when you take out the abs wabco, to make bleeding easier as a tip fill the holes on top with a syringe of brake fluid....i found this makes the bleeding process go faster. in other words fill up the abs wabco with brake fluid then tighten the fittings from the brake lines. its a tip to save you some bleeding time.......

 

Hi all,

Is there any need to use a disconnect like shown in Option B? Can I just run two wires out to the loom and ground?

Thanks.

 

I thought of that as well, and that should work fine, you would just have to cut the wire to the harness and unscrew the bolt on the ground if you ever needed to remove it. AND, since this is the first time I have ever removed it, that should not be very often. I would just make sure you leave enough slack on the harness connection, so you have wire to cut and re-soldier if you ever need to.

 

Hi all,

Well, just did Option B on my 2003 Disco II. Did not remove modulator side or any brake lines, just propped up the unit and got at the three allen screws underneath. They broke loose fairly easy, but it's a tight fit and not a lot of room to work. Patience seemed like the word of the day turning those screws a 1/4 turn at a time... BUT! For now, no Amigos! We'll see how it goes over the coming weeks and I'll report back. I just simply ran two wires out of the unit; one to the harness and one to ground. I didn't feel like running to the store to buy a disconnect. With any kind of luck, this will be adios amigos for good!

Thanks for the GREAT write up!!!!

Love this forum.

 

Just an update on my above post...almost two months and....STILL NO AMIGOS!!!

 

If you do not want TC/ABS/DC how about removing the complete modulator and replacing with a ordinary proportional valve like most normal vehicles have?
Has anybody done this? I am sure that some connector pins may have to be modified to fool the ABS ECU but I am sure it must be possible.

With the manual CDL fitted it turns it back into a "real" land rover.

 

I mean... if you don't want TC/ABS/HDC we could all just buy an old army surplus manual jeep or something :P

Most normal vehicles actually have ABS.. sorry to say.

I'm nearly 110% positive that no land rover enthusiast would disable their ABS, HDC, and TC as well as the electronic brake force distribution that many forget about.

The Discovery II was (IIRC) the first production vehicle in history to feature 4-wheel electronic traction control, hill descent control, and electronic brake force distribution. If you do any research into these facts you're bound to gain some more respect for Land Rover and the vehicle as this says a LOT. The Discovery was THE vehicle that paved the way for technology that many cars now feature.

This is the first time I've read the sticky as my rover has been in repair after a front end collision for 7 months - I drove it around the parking lot today for the first time. Three-amigos are present now, but I think it's because I haven't bled the modulator with testbook yet. Pre-collission they weren't there (well, sometimes, but cycling engine on/off always fixed it) - I believe it was a bleeding problem. I'm taking it to my shop tomorrow but if it doesn't fix it I'll be using option B.

And FWIW Josh, you are a freaking genius. Who knew such an annoying PITA issue with these vehicles was due to a SINGLE wire (minus gnd.) - says a lot considering how complicated the system is. After I finish my reincarnation of the Disco project following that collision in July, I plan on donating to your site ASAP! You have undoubtedly saved people tens of thousands of dollars at ~$500 a pop per modulator assy. plus labor, bleeding, etc at a shop over all of the forum members who have read this.

 

Hi don't forget that these extra devices are all to compensate for lack of driving skill. 120,000 miles on to find out that expensive parts need replacement or expensive repair finding an alternative method is a good idea. Remember the philosophy of "KISS". My previous Disco had none of these features and performed excellently off road. My LR110 Diesel in 1989 was almost unstoppable but I had airlockers front and rear and they were bullet proof - good way of getting all 4 wheels driving.

Each thing I fix something else then fails and each time it is several hundred to fix often for a part that is many times the cost of similar parts from Ford or Chevy.
I can see the benefit of ABS - except in some snow circumstances where it would be best turned off as would traction control. How many owners actually went off road beyond the odd unpaved?

I must admit it is a long time since I owned Landrovers - 12 years. So I was not aware of all these problems with Discos before I bought what I thought was a relatively low mileage D2, drove well etc. These electronic gizmos are a nightmare and unnecessary. So if I can find out how to disable/remove them I can focus my expenditure on fixing the oil leaks etc.