i've already explained it.

What you are referring to as "O-rings" are the shuttle valve seals I already described for you that are sold by Falconworks. The probability that you need them is very, very small, as Best4x4 said.

Spend $10. Spent $32. Spent $160. I don't care. We have explained everything to you in detail. See links below.

https://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales...roducts_id=247

https://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales...roducts_id=190

 

Not sure why everyone is so quick to cut into the wiring loom when you pull the shuttle valve switch, it’s dry and the wires are disintegrated. What’s the harm in installing a new shuttle valve and seeing if that solves the problem? As stated by another poster confirming that the solder is bad in the ABS module is much more labor intensive and to me without confirmation the loom will not be touched. PLUS if his wires are bad on the shuttle valve creating a new connection via soldering in is a crap shoot. Point is if he installs a new shuttle valve switch and everything is cool, he’s fine. If his ABS pops again he’s got option B and he’s got a fresh shuttle valve switch he can create a solid connection to.

I think I got my new wabco shuttle valve for about the same price as a tank of gas.

 

Hey, Thanks guys for being patient with me. As I get older, I find that I have little joy in auto repair. Having kids just did it for me. So, slowly, I will have to invest in tools and time. Every post on this forum always has something new. Even though the subjects are repeated over and over. ABS system sucks. It shouldn't.

 

Option B if done properly = 1 cut wire Yellow/Green Stripe, on the vehicle harness and if done correctly you can put it back with a butt connector and be back to OEM in seconds with a new shuttle valve switch assembly.

I personally inspect the shuttle valve switch assembly & if it needs work like new insulation on the wires = I sit it to the side install a new shuttle valve switch assembly and perform Option B at the same time. Do it one time and call it good for many many years. Then I take the old shuttle valve switch, replace the insulation with 3/32 heatshrink, install Option B pigtail, and I have a perfect spare.

It is NOT the shuttle valve switches which are 100% responsible for the 3 Amigos. Most of the time it is the internal PCB where the OEM connector on the shuttle valve switches connect which is broken.

I prefer to do Option B and enjoy HDC, ABS, and TC without any faults. After Option B the system is rock solid with the exception of maybe a wheel sensor, but it eliminates the weak link in the system.

 

New to the forum and can’t seem to find the fix for the 3 amigos. Please help 😢

 

There (I believe) are more than a dozen different scenarios that can cause the three amigos. You'll need to narrow down your issue with a code reader first. If you have a shuttle valve issue, look for "Option B" in the sticky links at the top of the Disco 2 forum.

 

Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but is there a write up/how-to for the 'option b'?

 

All D2 Write Up's

 

Thank you!

 

No problem