abs shuttle valve
#11
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X1. if there was a great enough demand the Chinese would have been in on the case for a while now, but sadly not. ![Frown](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/udbMv2o.png)
Falcon works seem to have the market cornered on WABCO SVS seals even in europe. WABCO won't sell them even, particularly to us minions who actually own D2's.
![Frown](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/udbMv2o.png)
Falcon works seem to have the market cornered on WABCO SVS seals even in europe. WABCO won't sell them even, particularly to us minions who actually own D2's.
![Roll Eyes](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/Yrp3aj7.png)
#12
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If you are going to go to the bother of replacing the shuttle valve, you might as well do the job right at replace the seals as well. They, in fact, are the source of the problem with the three amigos when it relates to a shuttle valve failure.
After awhile (especially 10-15 years) the tiny seals at the bottom of the shuttle valve plungers go bad. They leak brake fluid onto the shuttle valve. We all know how nasty brake fluid is. Well, given time, the brake fluid damages the shuttle valve and you get the three amigos.
Now, you can just replace the shuttle valve but I am willing to bet that, with the seals still leaking, you're looking at redoing the job in the not too distant future. It could be anywhere from a few months to a couple of years but the leak will eventually damage the new shuttle valve in the same way it destroyed the original.
If you're interested, I have a brand new shuttle valve with the replacement seals for sale. It came from Falconworks, the guys who really know this stuff and have saved many people from wasting a lot of needless time and effort in doing this repair. If you're interested let me know. I also have a great modulator that has been tested with a Hawkeye and has no issues whatsoever.
Cheers,
Paul
After awhile (especially 10-15 years) the tiny seals at the bottom of the shuttle valve plungers go bad. They leak brake fluid onto the shuttle valve. We all know how nasty brake fluid is. Well, given time, the brake fluid damages the shuttle valve and you get the three amigos.
Now, you can just replace the shuttle valve but I am willing to bet that, with the seals still leaking, you're looking at redoing the job in the not too distant future. It could be anywhere from a few months to a couple of years but the leak will eventually damage the new shuttle valve in the same way it destroyed the original.
If you're interested, I have a brand new shuttle valve with the replacement seals for sale. It came from Falconworks, the guys who really know this stuff and have saved many people from wasting a lot of needless time and effort in doing this repair. If you're interested let me know. I also have a great modulator that has been tested with a Hawkeye and has no issues whatsoever.
Cheers,
Paul
Hummer?s Meritor Wabco ABS Modulator - Hummer Knowledge Base PDF Download - arepdf.com
2003 Discovery 144K
#13
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I believe I have read every page on the ABS repair methods, so I am hoping to summarize my fix here and confirm with people if I am on the right track. As I know it could be wheel hubs, speed sensors, etc. Easy things first.
So, I have a new SVC and the rubber grommets.
My plan is to do the "B" repair, extend the wiring outside of the unit. I expect that I should replace the rubber grommets as well. The instructions with the package from Falcon Works are not particularly clear, but we will cross that bridge later.
Questions:
If I do "B", do I need a new shuttle valve? Can I re-use the old one?
Also, the Falcon Works instructions specify a Super Blue and one other brand of brake fluid as the only acceptable products. What do people think of this? I was planning on using Valvoline as Super Blue requires for thought and planning to purchase in advance of doing this.
Thanks for the feedback.
So, I have a new SVC and the rubber grommets.
My plan is to do the "B" repair, extend the wiring outside of the unit. I expect that I should replace the rubber grommets as well. The instructions with the package from Falcon Works are not particularly clear, but we will cross that bridge later.
Questions:
If I do "B", do I need a new shuttle valve? Can I re-use the old one?
Also, the Falcon Works instructions specify a Super Blue and one other brand of brake fluid as the only acceptable products. What do people think of this? I was planning on using Valvoline as Super Blue requires for thought and planning to purchase in advance of doing this.
Thanks for the feedback.
#14
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I replaced the shuttle valve without reading the abs codes. I had 'assumed' that was the fault after reading so many cases. Wrong. Mistake. Rookie error.
I now have a nice new shuttle valve, with the option B repair, and the 3A's remain. Awaiting code reader to probably discover a wheel sensor needs doing.
My seals arnt leaking. Shuttle valve was clean and looked great. So I have a spare.
For all those who think the svs repair is a magic bullet for the 3A's, Make sure it's the right kind of Magic first.
I now have a nice new shuttle valve, with the option B repair, and the 3A's remain. Awaiting code reader to probably discover a wheel sensor needs doing.
My seals arnt leaking. Shuttle valve was clean and looked great. So I have a spare.
For all those who think the svs repair is a magic bullet for the 3A's, Make sure it's the right kind of Magic first.
#15
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I replaced the shuttle valve without reading the abs codes. I had 'assumed' that was the fault after reading so many cases. Wrong. Mistake. Rookie error.
I now have a nice new shuttle valve, with the option B repair, and the 3A's remain. Awaiting code reader to probably discover a wheel sensor needs doing.
My seals arnt leaking. Shuttle valve was clean and looked great. So I have a spare.
For all those who think the svs repair is a magic bullet for the 3A's, Make sure it's the right kind of Magic first.
I now have a nice new shuttle valve, with the option B repair, and the 3A's remain. Awaiting code reader to probably discover a wheel sensor needs doing.
My seals arnt leaking. Shuttle valve was clean and looked great. So I have a spare.
For all those who think the svs repair is a magic bullet for the 3A's, Make sure it's the right kind of Magic first.
Did you check your front hubs for play? I think when the hubs get old and have play it will set the 3A's off as well.
I have had several encounters with those...
When I first bought my 03 about 8 years ago it had the 3A's, I cleaned all of my ground connections, on the battery, the connector on the fender, and on the block, and also had to put a new terminal on the ground cable at the battery since it would not tighten like it should. It cured my 3A's for a long time, like years.
then several years later my battery got weak and got the 3A's again and when I put a new battery in they went away again.
another time when they showed up, it was time for new brake pads and rotors up front and after that they went away again for years.
They have only shown up again after I let my truck sit for several months, then after I charged my battery they were gone again for a few weeks, then I swapped out the battery with an almost new one I had in another one and they are gone for now..knock on wood.
So I'm not saying that a new battery or clean cables or any of that will cure your problems, just passing along how it went with me.
These trucks are weird... especially anything to do with electrics.
Last edited by RicketyTick; 10-08-2014 at 08:33 AM.
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