First off let me premises with I do not work on my truck for fun rather it's a necessity, so if I do something I like to do it once.

For the last 18-months my truck has been operating at 95C-99C which for us in the states is 203-210F. I have never heard my condenser fan run, but I do not use my AC unless the old lady is with me; and as stated it always stayed in range. Well with the 100 degree weather last week my truck went up to 103C / 217F so I thought I should check the condenser fan and sure enough it was frozen, frozen so long it had nests in it.

So now I was going to have to fix it or wait for another Chernobyl melt down, I started looking for a heavy duty replacements (do it once) not much for options out there. While going thru a new copy of LRO they had an article about new cooling fans (LRO is based in England) in the ads in the back I found a company that sells a twin fan upgrade for petrol Discos. A few emails back and forth and it turns out the kit used two 100 watt 12 inch pusher fans with some special brackets and mounts.
Being the cheap SOB that I am and hating to do things twice I ordered to 100 watt 12 inch pusher fans and picked up two 28 inch pieces of flat stock. I drilled the flat stock so that I could use existing bolt holes in the radiator support, I did need to get longer 8mm bolts.

I then mounted the two pusher fans on the flat stock and slid the unit into place. One side it mounts behind the AC dryer and on the other to existing bolts in the core support.

So what I have ended up with is a system that allows me to use it in many different configuration:
1. I can run both fans together and let the ECU control them.
2. I can run one fan and keep the other as a spare.
3. I can hook the second fan to switch under the dash just for towing.
4. I can install a automatic switch to the second fan set at say 220F, (this is probably the way I will go).

This is not recomended by LRNA, just what I did to improve my problem.

Another “assumption” if your cooling system is operating to its fullest overheating should not be a problem. Like I said 18-months my condenser fan never worked and I sit in a 12 mile traffic jam in and out of downtown Boston every day, stop and go and it never when over 99C / 210F until OAT went into triple digits.

PS. If you have brush bar and have not taken the bolts out that hold the headlight guards in place, do it asap and install some antiseize on the threads.

 

MaryLou's Coffee? Seriously? I'm a Honey Dew man, myself.

Seriously, great job. Where did you get the plastic stock? Overall, how difficult was the job? My condenser fan is also frozen, and this looks like a great solution.

 

You could do it I half a day, I did it Saturday and it was 95F one minute and raining the next. My biggest obstacle was the brush bar seemed like every time I got the right angle on something the brush bar was in the way.
The whole thing was under $60 I think the fans were like $20.00ea. and the flat stock and paint another $15.00. Were I to do it again I would put it all together and then take it apart when it was time to install it, again without the brush bar maybe it not so much of a problem to install as a unit.
The old lady took it to the store yesterday and came back saying it was making a noise, I thought I left something loose. But it was just the noise of the fans, funny she never notice how quite it was when the didn’t run, but them again neither did I.
Right now they a wired together but I think I will install a sensor and take power from a different source for the second fan, at least that way I know they will never be out at the same time.

PS, Better butts at maryLou's than Honey Dew
did you see they are getting sued because all they hire is young high school chicks.

 

since you could adjust things, might consider having both come on at 212F like they do in a D1...... just about every D2 I run across in the boneyard has a frozen electric fan...

 

I am fascinated by the dual fan set up, and would like to have one turn on via the now-defunct SLS button in my truck for use when I'm towing. Electrical work, however, is not my strong suit. Anyone have any suggestions as to how I can do this? Thanks very much. Keep in mind, any instructions need to be dumbed down so a layman such as myself can understand it. Thanks.

 

shouldnt really be that hard all you need to do is find the wires the originally feed your compressor (under the drivers floor boards) and use them to power up the fans.
Of course you will have to check the amperage rating on the SLS curcuit but i'm sure it will be heavy enoogh to hold the load of the fans. Savanah can probabbly help you out with the exact curcuit, you could even pick it up under the hood.

 

Would be great if we could use a setup like this and eliminate the fan clutch. Just need to find a place to put the sensor.

 

there are a couple of those univeral temp senders that mount in the upper rad hose on ebay.
a lot of people are using them for temp gauges, insteed of install the temp sender you could install a fan switch.
probablly want some more powerful 12'' fans (more cfms) as the would be doing primary cooling.
would also for useful for water crossings where you could shut the fan off while crossing rather than breaking a blade on the water.

 

I saw a external thermal switch/relay kit in the parts store along with the electric fans they sell, which might also work. But consider this, you have a large about 18 inch fan engine drive now, plus one or two (D1) electric fans. I would think that you would need to be sure that the end all electric system had more CFMs than stock, to make up for the lost air that will leak out around DIY fabrication, shrouds, etc.

 

it shouldnt take a rocket scientist to figure it out there are a lot of kit that come with shrouds, i see one that 24x24. Hell until 67 car didnt have shrouds all they has was 4" x 10" sheetmetal plate to keep you from getting your fingers cut off while removing the radiator cap