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Adventures of Irontite and the Cracked Block

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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:24 PM
  #81  
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From: mini soda
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3500 Mile Update

Finally got an Ultragauge. But still running the Motorad 180.

Get a little rough idle and the flashing P0305 on every startup where the truck has sat for at least a few hours. Im thinking I may want to do another treatment of the Irontite red before winter hits. Even so, code does not come back during the subsequent drive and engine runs fine with no overheating.

Temps still 194-203 with peaks of 208-210 going uphill at highway speed.

Over the course of the last month the coolant level dropped about 1 inch below the coolant tank line. There is coolant escaping from the overflow spout and maybe cap area of the tank. I got a new cap today, so we'll see what happens driving it around tomorrow.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 07:00 AM
  #82  
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so far so good, if another treatment saves you from replacing the block what do you have to lose. it looks like all your time getting the block prepared paid off
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 08:21 AM
  #83  
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Your symptoms also point toward a weak cap, so replace is good. Mine was so bad in another vehicle I noticed an arc of coolant dribbles that tracked with my tire after I wheeled into the parts store. Spurts of coolant maybe six inches apart. Just riding down the road dribbling, need the vehicle sized Depends.

Real Rover stat should help temps, if radiator is in good shape and not internally coated with the Irontite.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 05:07 PM
  #84  
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Get rid of the motor-rad.
Put in a real Land Rover 180 degree stat.
Replace the radiator.
You'll most likely be pleased.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 05:38 PM
  #85  
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Waht's the difference between the motor-rad and LR thermos?

Stiffer spring?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by dr. mordo
Waht's the difference between the motor-rad and LR thermos?

Stiffer spring?
Factory seems to run 10+ degrees cooler than the motorad.

Originally Posted by pinkytoe69
Temps still 194-203 with peaks of 208-210 going uphill at highway speed.
With the factory 180 dark grey t-stat I run 183-187º or 193-198º in 100º degree weather. I've only seen it break the 200º mark while the intake temps read 160º while sitting in a drive through for 15 minutes going nowhere.
 

Last edited by caymandrew; Aug 31, 2013 at 05:54 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by jfall
Replace the radiator.
Even though its less than a year old and has no Irontite it it?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 08:59 PM
  #88  
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From: mini soda
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Originally Posted by dr. mordo
Waht's the difference between the motor-rad and LR thermos?

Stiffer spring?
I dunno, but lots of word-o-mouth, me included, would say it gives temps that are a middle ground between the grey 180 and stock.

Getting the real 180 is definitely a priority for me.

With the new cap and coolish (78*) weather, I only went up to 204 on the big highway hill today. No more coolant at the end of the bottle straw.

Also, previously the top hose would be, while not rock hard, quite firm after shutdown and would stay that way a while after getting home. Today it was noticeably spongier after cooling for a couple hours.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 09:40 PM
  #89  
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If your rad is less than a year old and not plugged then keep it.
Absolutely, you need to pull out the Motorad thermostat. Get a hammer and beat on it (so it does not get into another rover) and throw it into the trash can.

get a real Land Rover thermostat - 180 Degrees.

The real 180 Degree Land Rover thermostat WILL MAKE THE largest difference in anything you replace.

I know this from the school of experience and a Degree in "been there and done that".
 
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 08:05 PM
  #90  
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From: mini soda
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So, I had a problem a week ago.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...se-help-61629/

Up until that point, I was having a rough idle and P0305 on almost every startup.

Since that was addressed, I have not had either issue come back after driving it every day for a week...knock on wood.
 
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