I am working on replacing my oil pump. How do I remove the crankshaft pulley without the "tool" and without "bumping" the starter? Is it a right-hand or a left-hand thread?


Is it OK to hit the breaker bar with a hammer to "shock" the bolt loose -- like with removing the fan?


Maybe I am being too paranoid about "bumping" it. The reason that I am paranoid is that I have the oil pan removed and there is no oil in the engine, fearing damage to the engine.

 

There is a locking pin hole at the rear of the engine which by inserting the pin locks the flywheel apart from this I don't know. I doubt if you will shock the nut undone using a hammer on the breaker bar as it may well just bounce and all you will get is impact shock down your arm.

 

I like the wedge from rear technique mentioned above
Also there is a kick over the started while socket on the nut and ratchet bound......never have attempted this one

 

Thanks. I ended up "bumping" it, and that worked perfectly.

 

Well seems like I’m always digging up old posts but I just finished a head gasket change because I started losing water and over heating. Pretty much assumed it was the water pump replaced it and it was still leaking And old one looked just fine. Figured it was probably the water jackets in the intake and since I’m at 130k might as well get in there do the gaskets and plugs and wires. That fixed the gushing out water but now when I fill it up with water there’s a small leak coming from the timing cover. Anyways I see all these posts on getting the bolt off but do I need a pulled Once I get the 24mm nut or bolt off the pulley and then what about reinstall there is a thread about making a tool with flat bar to bolt it to the pulley to keep it from moving. But if I go with the breaker bar and starter kick how did you get it back to torque re installing?

 

You have to pull the oil pan to remove front cover, unless someone has been in there before you and replaced the three studs along front with bolts. If studs are still intact, pull oil pan, wedge a wooden block against a crack lobe and rotate slowly until crank stops turning, then remove crank bolt. Reverse procedure to re-torque.

If studs are removed, remove rubber access plug below starter, rotate crank until you see a flexplate bolt head, then insert a large socket on the end of an extension into hole (19mm), rotate until it binds up against access hole, then remove crank bolt.



Picture of extension and socket in access hole.

 

This is what I used, since I was stupid enough to re-install the oil pan before I torqued down the harmonic pulley. The smallest set of pins fit the pulley holes and my son torqued it while I held the tool that held the pulley.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...l/4754/4606243

Rhys Legge