When I replaced the steering box, the new one (an Adwest) did not have the notch in it to fit the centralizing bolt, so I eyeballed the old drop arm as best I could and fitted. Now, driving straight ahead, the steering wheel is about 45 degrees off.

I also replaced the track rod, drag link, panhard, added 3" lift, wheels, tires. So... everything. Not sure which part I messed up.

Can I simply take this to any alignment shop and let them work their magic? Anything I should ask about or confirm? Are shops capable of adjusting the panhard and steering column/drag link or is that outside the scope of a typical alignment?

 

Should just need to adjust your tie rods. You can do that with a tape measure. Your wheels should be 1/16 or 1/8" toe out. On my disco I always do my own because it's so easy.

As for the panhard bar, I would just eyeball it. You could get it pretty d*mn close that way.

 

Jeff - if you are willing to take the ferry, I highly recommend Tru-line or at least call them

 

Steering wheel is a separate adjustment from the track rod.
It's the tie rod that goes to the steering linkage. You just adjust it until the wheels and the steering wheel match. Took me a few goes around the block, you can leave the locking nuts looseish while you work it out. But, not a big problem with a few wrenches in the truck and some hop out and get under at the side of the road.
No need for alignment for just centering the steering wheel (but for toe in/toe out, I'd call the professionals).

 

In the Rave:
57.35.05
steps 10-13.

 

That makes sense.. but I guess this is all assuming the steering box drop arm was aligned with the steering column to begin with. I'm pretty sure I did it right, but since my box doesn't have the notch for the centralizing bolt I can't be certain.

i have an appt Wednesday morning at kitsap tire. I will report back results.

 

You've got quite a few degrees of flexibility in there, so long as you're not wildly off you should be fine. I'd give it a whirl before you paid someone else (unless your tie rod and adjustment sleeve are totally seized - in-which case better to make it someone else's problem).

 

Turn your steering wheel right to left and see if it hits the stops, if it does...you are probably good (pitman arm is centered good enough)...if not, drop pitman arm and adjust until it does. If you are pretty sure you got it in the same position as before, l'd assume you are good though. Once you are okay with the pitman arm adjustment, stop to stop, adjust the toe to your desired setting, then lastly, center steering wheel by adjusting the track rod.

I personally didn't like the 1/16 degree toe-out, seemed to wander, pulling/hunting from right to left constantly, especially on grooved asphalt...drove me f'n crazy. Set my toe-in at 1/16 and it centers itself in the lane much, much better.

I'm running 265/75R16's.

Brian.

 

Got back from the alignment shop. Attached report. Adjusted the toe a bit, and fixed the steering wheel, but otherwise it looks like I did a pretty close job.

The tech says the castor is off by 3 degrees, and he can't fix that. That would explain the shopping cart feel. I'm going to get the Terrafirma castor corrected radius arms and that should fix it. He's worried that correcting it may bring the drag link in contact with the diff, and throw the driveshaft out of align as well. I guess we'll just have to find out and see.

I've done research on the radius arms before, and most people said it was pretty optional.. but after hearing what the tech said, plus the shopping cart feel, this job seems necessary to me.

 

Does anyone have bushing recommendations for the new radius arms?