I purchased a 2003 se7 with 113k miles the other day. I had to jump start it to test drive it but everything was good, door locks worked, windows etc.. It has an after market alarm which locked and unlocked the doors as well as the key fob. I took it home and charged the battery then put it back in and when i hooked the cables up the alternator started smoking (yes I hooked it up right). i immediately unhooked the positive and negative. I hooked them back up and no more smoke but the horn started blaring and the headlight washers started spraying. i unhooked again and got a new battery and put it in. No more weird issues so I got in and noticed the S and M lights were flashing in the dash and the D for drive had a "/" through it. I turned the key and nothing. It is completely dead. The windows, locks, and radio do not work now either. I put the key in the drivers door and it won't unlock or lock it either. Neither the key fob or the aftermarket alarm do not work now. Everything is dead. Has anyone had anything like this happen before or have any ideas where to start?

 

M&S lights on because tranny computer detected under 9 volts.

Sounds like you might be immobilized. I do not envy you having after market alarm, since your after market keyfobs might not un-immobilze you. May have to use EKA generic code 1515 with door key.

But with so many things off, you need to check each of the fuse links (bolt in fuses) in the underhood fuse box.

Really bad to smoke alternator, that is insulation melting.

 

Savannah Buzz,
Thanks for the quick reply. I planned on removing the aftermarket alarm once I started working on it but this happened before I could. I an unaware on how to program the 1515 code on the key. How is this done? Should i try other things before i reprogram the key? What is causing the "D" to have a "/" through it. I have read of the tranny computer causing the "S" and "m" lights to blink but would I have to reset this or how do I get those to go away? I replaced the battery already so I should have above 9 volts now. Could something be drawing that many volts from that new battery for it to think there is less than 9 volts? I have another alternator from a spare disco that I hooked up and nothing changed.

 

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...d-works-45005/ - you are using the driver door lock to send the EKA code, not programming anything.

You also with all the electrical work may have blown one or more fuses that screw in as part of the underhood fusebox.

 

I will be home in a couple days and I will try the EKA code and check all the fuses. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again

 

Before you start (no pun intended) - check the red light (from the shop manual):

Engine immobilised: If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is on, the LED is illuminated continuously. If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is off, the LED flashes 50 ms on, 2 seconds off.

 

A little more info..
I wanted to get a new battery before I started trying different things to resolve this, so I took the original battery in to get a new one and have it tested. As my luck would go apparently some how the polarity changed on my battery when i charged it. They said they had only seen that once before in all the years they have been in business. So..what do you think is damaged if the battery is hooked up backwards? Can't say I have ever done it before( didn't really do it this time either). Thanks for your help.

 

Reverse polarity, at high amps, can smoke a lot of things. But, many electronic designs include a polarity protection diode, so equipment may just be blocked from using the reverse power. Alternator may not have liked it. You may have also blown some fuses. You could connect the new one properly, but pull the fuse link #1 under the hood first. It is a 150 amp between battery and alternator. Truck should start on new battery, and run, but battery light will be on and there will be no charging. Don't drive, with no charging you only have reserve minutes to use battery. Once you verify other things working, with engine off put that fuse link back in. Whisper a short prayer to the Rover gods, and sock the sherbert to it.

If you have been lucky, no damage, and alternator will produce 13.8 - 14.4 volts at idle with no other things turned on. Turn everything on (AC, lights, wipers) and volts should stay above 13.2. If a diode has been damaged, the three-phase to DC alternator won't produce full amps, and volts will drop sharply as amp load is increased.

 

I was not so lucky to not damage anything. I replaced all the fuses in the main fuse box underneath the hood and nothing when the key was turned over. I replaced the whole fuse box with a spare and I could get it turn over but no start. Replaced the fuses in the console fuse box and it started.... BUT alternator is fried. Battery light is on the dash. I have a spare but it was a pain in the rear to figure out what happened because a freak accident with the battery. BUZZ, thank you for the help, I imagine I will be on soon to update you with some new problems I would like to pick your brain about.