Nice craftsmanship!

 

Not hard to make the cutouts. A step drill bit and a dremel do the job. I had to take the hood off, but that is very easy and quick, took me about an hour for the complete job. I am very happy with the relocation. Thank you Extinct for this idea and the kit.

 

Looking good! Easy to change those coils or wires now!

 

Silicone Hoses.
I ordered a set of Silicon Hoses from EBay, they should arrive today or tomorrow. If anyone has any questions about them, just ask here.
My short term plan is to modify them into an Inline Thermostat.
My Long term plan is to figure out a way to have an inline thermostat, and a bypass so I can either heat up, or cool down, the coolant without the engine being on. I drive in both exceedingly hot, and exceedingly cold areas. In really cold areas, I always throw a code, because engine takes too long to get to operating temp. I'm thinking about putting in a valve and electric pump, then a way to heat the coolant and run it into the radiator for heating.
For cooling, same pump and valve, but kick on the fan as well, so that I can quickly cool down the system. Even with an Alisport Radiator, inline mod, and aluminum overflow tank, it doesn't like towing 4,000 lbs in the heat, upgrade. Flat is actually fine, but even moderate grades, I can't pump out the heat fast enough, so I pull over to let the system cool. Speeding up this cooling, gets me back on track faster.

 

In the 60's and 70's lots of cars had heater core valve, some mechanical, some vacuum operated. The modern Jags and Lincoln LS had electronic ones that were very problematic. The benefit of course is the engine heats faster without circulation through the heater core when you want to blast it in the winter. The fuel burning heater thingy is pretty cool, you could look at importing one from the UK. I bought a engine block heater with a pump built in to it that plugs in to the wall to heat up engine blocks for crack testing. Would be hard to get enough watts out of a 12v power source to heat the block without the engine running.

Did you see the thread last week with the four core radiator? That's the only solution for highway load issue, we have plenty of airflow just not enough heat exchanger. Auxiliary oil coolers could also be employed.

 

So, I started the coil relocation. I have a couple of questions now that I'm into it.
1. My truck is SAI. Does the portion of the instructions regarding SAI apply to both side of the engine?
2. I think whomever worked on the coils last didn't install any of the mounting hardware. I can move the bracket around. Is that common for shops to do?
3. Are these the only bolts holding the intake on?

if so, should it lift right off? If prying is required where should it be done?

Thanks
Erik

 

There are two more bolts, one at the front and one at the firewall. In addition there are two screws that mount the SAI pipe to the upper manifold, you need to take them off.

 

As Discorama said, total of 6 bolts, 4 in the center and two shorter ones front and rear in the center (btw, I never put those back in). To answer your questions, yes very common for shops to not put the bolts back in to the mounting bracket. Hopefully they did not put the bolts in to the sai bracket either, can you wiggle the pipes? On the sides, yes the manifold brackets are basically the same left and right, from the factory they are mounted to the upper intake with studs and nuts. Those are often left off after the first coil replacement too.

 

Your insight about the SAI bolts are correct. I can move the tubes behind the motor.
Ill check on the passenger side bracket to see why that one seems more difficult to get free. Thanks for all the work on this kit.