Another overheating question
#11
Update
OK,
I think that I fixed the air problem inside the system but now after using the o-ring that I found inside the bottle and putting on the cap and driving and getting temp of 230, I stopped and turn off the car and start leaking pressure from the cap, I will take the o-ring out of the cap I will try again without the o-ring in installed in the cap.
ale
I think that I fixed the air problem inside the system but now after using the o-ring that I found inside the bottle and putting on the cap and driving and getting temp of 230, I stopped and turn off the car and start leaking pressure from the cap, I will take the o-ring out of the cap I will try again without the o-ring in installed in the cap.
ale
#13
Way too hot. When testing the cooling system, no need to sail past 217. The factory stat is set to be fully open at 205F, and electric fans boost cooling when 212F is reached. Normal running down the road temps should be 200 +/- 5 degrees. The alternate temp thermostat (180F soft spring) will make that in the 180-200 range.
If you can't bleed out the bubbles, it may be making them from a cracked block, head gasket problem, etc. There is a chemical test for exhaust gas in coolant, costs about $50, sniffs the hot coolant and changes colors. Does maybe 15 tests.
Don't confuse fuel temp with coolant temp.
Coolant cap vents at 18 psi, so high temp can make it vent.
Main radiator - needs to be clear of mud and leaf trash front and back. After warming up, engine off, the fins should be within 10F top to bottom in same vertical line. The lower rows close off first from sludge and scale, so they get cooler from less flow. Pretty soon you have half a radiator. When warmed up and engine off spin the fan and release, should stop in under 1 revolution. If it freewheels, fluid is lost and you need a new clutch, cooling at idle and slow will suffer.
Excess temp warps heads, fails head gaskets, and can break loose cylinder sleeves which begin to tick as they move around.
If you can't bleed out the bubbles, it may be making them from a cracked block, head gasket problem, etc. There is a chemical test for exhaust gas in coolant, costs about $50, sniffs the hot coolant and changes colors. Does maybe 15 tests.
Don't confuse fuel temp with coolant temp.
Coolant cap vents at 18 psi, so high temp can make it vent.
Main radiator - needs to be clear of mud and leaf trash front and back. After warming up, engine off, the fins should be within 10F top to bottom in same vertical line. The lower rows close off first from sludge and scale, so they get cooler from less flow. Pretty soon you have half a radiator. When warmed up and engine off spin the fan and release, should stop in under 1 revolution. If it freewheels, fluid is lost and you need a new clutch, cooling at idle and slow will suffer.
Excess temp warps heads, fails head gaskets, and can break loose cylinder sleeves which begin to tick as they move around.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 05-23-2013 at 11:33 AM.
#14
1. ok, guessing here but you need a new cap you can get it at almost any parts store for $20.00.
2. Have you checked the routing of the belt, Yah I know everyone say they did, then 2-days later the come back say the belt was wrong.
3. I would guessing again say that your condenser fan motor is not working as it should have come on around 210-215 degrees.
4.When bleeding the system the recovery tank is raised, you are only bleeding it stone cold, and you are letting the coolant run out the vent for a minute or so before putting the screw back in.
2. Have you checked the routing of the belt, Yah I know everyone say they did, then 2-days later the come back say the belt was wrong.
3. I would guessing again say that your condenser fan motor is not working as it should have come on around 210-215 degrees.
4.When bleeding the system the recovery tank is raised, you are only bleeding it stone cold, and you are letting the coolant run out the vent for a minute or so before putting the screw back in.
#15
Bummer about 259 Hope it didn't ruin head gaskets. If it did No worries. I changed mine after bugging everyone on this forum for a month. I'm not all that mechanical but I have done easier things to it all along. Takes a long time but it is just nuts bolts and a patient wife. But it's running great now. Going to buy tires for it tomorrow.
Good Luck
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