Hello everyone, I am new to this forum, and a new owner of a beautiful secondhand '01 Disco II. Upon purchasing the vehicle, the former owner informed me that the rig was beginning to overheat. After a long test drive with no issues, I decided to take the gamble and made the purchase (really I had fallen in love with what I have now aptly named "The Tank"). After a week, I had driven the truck about 300 miles, and it had not overheated once, so I was beginning to wonder if it was a fluke. Sadly, I was wrong. I would also like to point out I did spend many hours combing through the owner's manual before driving it seriously. About 5 days ago it began overheating, very quickly I might add, within about a mile from starting. So everytime I pulled over and let it cool. Not a good way to get around you can imagine. I read through several threads on this forum, and after some poking around the motor, and different opinions from both mechanics and other owners, I think I may have the gremlin nailed down. Initially I thought perhaps there was an issue with the thermostat, so I replaced it, no change. Then, after noticing white smoke in the exhaust, immediately assumed a head gasket issue. A colleague of mine had his brother, who works for a land rover dealership as a mechanic, take a look, and he said there was no CO2 present in the coolant, and no coolant in the oil, so the head gasket was probably not the problem. After reading deeper into the forums, I decided to bleed the system, noting that air in the system could not only cause the overheating, but could also cause the interior heating to fail. Afterwards, the interior heat began working like a charm, and the truck would not overheat while idling anymore. Though it does still get hot, now after driving for about 5-10 minutes. Once again after feeling about the engine, and reading more through these forums, I believe the radiator is clogged up, and that the fan clutch is also no good. The top hoses, once the rig begins to overheat, are almost too hot to touch, where as the bottom hose coming out of the radiator, is barely luke warm, which many people on here say, is indicative of a clog. As well, at normal operating temperature, I have read that the fan should be difficult to turn by hand, though mine spins with ease, and many people say that is likely due to a bad fan clutch. So, sorry for such a long thread, I am just trying to be as thorough as possible, and would like to know if I have missed anything, or any of my beliefs may be incorrect. As well, I did notice some copper colored flakes in the coolant when changing the thermostat, and answers for what it may be range from serious internal damage, to prior use of a "leak stop" product, which many agree, could, cause a clog. Any insight or advice is very much appreciated!!

 

To start, I would suggest to get an Ultragauge to check the accuracy of events when the overheating starts. I battled an overheating issue for 2 years only when the weather gets hot so I only use it during winter. Replaced thermostat, hoses, etc. Everything checked out fine and still cant drive when weather get around 70 degrees up. Finally this spring, I found the problem accidentally when I decided to replace the radiator. I saw the fan shroud is touching the fan when I close the hood, it completely pushed the shroud down to the blades. But every time I open the hood, it releases the pressure on the fan that is why I always see the fan turning fine. So after securing the plastic shroud properly, now the temperature is stable and hardly reached 198 on a regular drive and 206 on really heavy traffic.
Now the sad part is the wify use it everyday. lol
BTW, check also radiator mounts if loose. It pushes the entire unit inwards together with the shroud and stops the fan from turning.

 

Congrats on the Disco, hope you can keep the tank running for a while.

About the overheating, it looks like you've done your reading. It very well may be a clogged radiator or broken fan clutch. The good news is the fan clutch and fan combo are ~$50, getting the fan off though can be a bitch. I took this from another thread "Hayden Automotive 2781 Premium Fan Clutch from Amazon for $36.53 and the Dorman 620-112 Radiator Fan Assembly for $23 + free shipping", I plan on doing this prophylactically myself soon.

With regards to the clogged radiator you could try back flushing it (hose in the exit - right side) and while your in there with a hose spray the radiator from the back to front, to get the gunk out. You might need a new radiator, I've read numerous members doing just fine with the $100 eBay specials - maybe someone else can chime in about which radiator is best/works.

I'll caution you though, don't drive the Landy while overheating, the engines are very sensitive to heat. I would get an ultragauge to monitor temps, or if your cheap like me you can get the China knockoff (KKmoon New Universal 5.5" Car A8 Hud Head Up Display with OBD2 Interface Plug Play KM/h MPH Speeding Warning https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011CIXFTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4VgezbKWAQH9T) . I get pretty uncomfortable over 200*F.

If all that fails have the master tech do a compression test.

 

I never drive it overheated, with the exception of finding a safe place to pull over, but I typically stop as soon as the gauge hits the top of the white. The fan shroud does not attach properly, the bracket on the right side (when looking at the motor) is broken off, and the screw for the other side is nowhere to be found. I keep trying to remove it, however, have been entirely unsuccessful, as I can't understand how it is supposed to come out, without removing the fan. Im fairly sure the temp gauge is accurate, as it is definitely getting very hot, as well as the coolant spewing out of the expansion tank nearly boiling. I'll definitely get a new fan shroud, and new fan when I replace the clutch.

 

Also, since this is somewhat of a time sensitive issue, I am leaning towards simply replacing the radiator, and then if I decide, I can clean out the old one and keep it as a back up. AutoZone or Oreilly's would charge me around $400 for a new one (with a lifetime warranty), I can find them cheaper online, but Im not sure which one would be better, as far as quality and fit. I've had issues in the past, ordering parts of amazon that claim to fit my vehicle, only to be completely incompatible.

 

Personally, I would just go ahead and replace the radiator and fan. I got my radiator from Atlantic British; works well. Do you have an Ultraguage or a OBD-II reader? I would go ahead and buy one. That will tell you exactly what the temps are.

I bought my first Discovery thinking all was well with the cooling system. Factory gauge read in the middle of the white all the time. Got a code reader and found out I was running around at 216-221*. Replaced the radiator and all was good for a month, then I was replacing head gaskets. Factory gauge didn't move from the middle of the white at all. Honestly the top of the white is hitting 230+, which is way too hot.

I wouldn't start it until you can guarantee that the coolant is not heating over 210 or so.

 

I am confident that the head gaskets are good. With no combustion gases present in the coolant, and no coolant leaking into the oil, it is hard to believe any of them have failed. Plus I was given the receipts from land rover showing they were completely redone about 4 months ago. So IF they failed again, it would likely be a much larger problem.

 

Is your internal heating working? If no, reverse flush the water hoses that go into the firewall from the engine to the heater coil.

I did this to mine and it was seriously clogged up. It is unlikely to be the main issue but it may be a contributing factor.

 

I got the nissens radiator and love it BC it has a drain plug!!! Big perk in my opinion. I had a water pump go out on me on the way home one day and changed it out on the side of I-65 only to find out when it went fubar, it hit the radiator and busted it. I've had great luck out of the nissens so far