Paul1454,

I remembered your earlier post about starting problems and your description matched the problems I was having with my 98 disco (102K). You said that over a period of time, 16 or more hours, you had a very hard time starting your truck. Well, that was exactly the same problem I was having.

The only difference was that I had already done all of the things that Disco Mike had suggested, new wires, new plugs, induction cleaning, etc. Still the problem lingered and it was getting worse. I’ve always used premium gas.

I also said that I was going the bite the bullet and spend the money on a new fuel pump. Disco Mike in other posts mentioned that there is a problem with a check valve in pump that does not keep the pressure up after it sits for a while.

I got the new pump on Friday from AB and had it installed yesterday. I took it to a chain repair shop, Strauss Auto. They are located in a bad neighborhood and mostly service an underprivileged clientele. I was talking to the manager and he said one of his mechanic’s has replaced three or four of them in discos for the same problem. I always thought I was the only disco they had ever worked on.

Took them about 20 minutes to replace it and I had it back home by 10am. Didn’t run it all day and this morning it was 6 degrees outside. It started on the first crank and I was kind of startled that it started so quickly.

Anyway, you do need to do all of the things that Disco Mike suggested, especially since you have been using regular. But keep in mind; you may need to replace the fuel pump since it’s over 100K. I know they aren’t cheap ($377 with shipping). And based on your last post, it does sound like a bad pump. I would do the same thing, turn it off an on three or four times and then it would start. But after a while, this wouldn't work and I would almost run the battery down to nothing before it finally started. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

 

Not bad news at all. I appreciate all the help I can get. I just want to get this thing fixed. I feel like an idiot that I've neglected it so bad. Truthfully, I just didn't know any better. I'm trying tosoak up all the information I can get from everyone around here so that I might be able to undothe damage that hasbeen done and get my truck back in the shape it needs to be.

 

Paul,
PM me with your tele number so we can get you going in the right direction.
Mike

 

Where do you live Paul?

 

Just a note...

Forgive me for stating the obvious..
But F-18's dont have Spark Plugs...


When you change the plugs..
Thread them in with the plug in the socket, and an extension in the socket, the extension in your HAND.
Do not thread the new plugs in with the Ratchet..
You dont want to cross thread them..
Thread them up hand tight, and then put the ratchet on the extension and tighten to spec..
I think its generally 1/4 to 1/2 turn after they seat with the hand... this will crush the little washer (examine old plug vs new plug and you will understand what Im saying)

Please feel free to Correct me Guys...

 

Oh we will...

I always start my new plugs by hand, then hand tighten with the socket by hand then with the rachet.

 

Tennessee

 

just to finally be able to contribute after my absence... dont feel so bad dude.. i live in louisiana and for a while if it dropped below 60 F i would fight and fight my truck to start... but for different reasons... my starter would miss a lot... but do one thing at a time and you can work your way to a finely tuned machine...

 

my disco sits outside half the week or more here in winter, i don't have starting problems, hasn't been above 30F since before Christmas.

 

Mike, sorry I missed your call today. I don't have too much time between jobs in the afternoon. I'll try to give you a call tomorrow afternoon.

Also, I've pulled up most of the maintenance procedures from the rave cd. Please let me know any tips you guys may have on these.

Bleed the brakes
Master cylinder bleed[/i] -The steps here seem fairly self explanatory
1. Disconnect battery negative lead.
2. Depress brake pedal fully and slowly 5 times.
3. Release the pedal and wait for ten seconds.
4. Air bubbles will rise into the reservoir during these instructions.
5. Repeat instructions until a firm resistance is felt at the pedal.

Complete circuit bleed[/i]
1. Disconnect battery negative lead.
2. Fit bleed hose to any caliper bleed screw.
3. Dip free end of bleed hose into brake fluid in bleed bottle.- So is the bleed bottle supposed to be full of brake fluid?
4. Open bleed screw of caliper.
5. Depress brake pedal fully several times until fluid is clear of air bubbles.
6. Keeping pedal fully depressed, tighten bleed screw, then release pedal.
7. Repeat the above procedure on remaining three calipers.
8. Fit all bleed screw protection caps.
9. Check/top-up fluid level when bleeding is complete.

Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
1. Ensure fluid in reservoir reaches dipstick maximum.
2. Run engine to normal operating temperature.
3. Recheck and correct reservoir fluid level.
NOTE: During instructions 4 to 6, maintain maximum fluid level in reservoir. Do not
increase engine speed or move steering wheel.
4. With engine at idle speed, loosen bleed screw. When fluid seeps past bleed screw retighten
screw.- When any fluid seeps past bleed screw?
5. Check fluid level.- Should I wait until this step to add the Lucas additive?
6. Clean away fluid around bleed screw.
7. Check hose connections, pump and steering box for fluid leaks by holding steering on full lock in both directions.
CAUTION: Do not maintain this pressure for more than 30 seconds in any one minute to avoid overheating fluid and possibly damaging seals.
8. Carry out road test.

Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive- This seems fairly straightforward.
1. Site vehicle on lift or level ground. Place container to drain gearbox fluid into. Disconnect battery negative lead.
2. Remove gearbox dipstick, located at rear of right hand rocker cover, to aid oil drainage. Release plug from bottom of sump and allow fluid to drain completely.
3. Refit plug using a new sealing washer. Tighten to 10 Nm
Refill ZF Automatic Gearbox and Check Fluid Level.
NOTE: The fluid level must checked when fluid is cold and engine idling in park.
4. Ensure vehicle is on level ground.
5. Refill or top-up with correct quantity and grade of fluid.

Change the coolant and t/stat
1. Remove expansion tank filler cap by slowly turning it anti-clockwise, pause to allow pressure
to escape. Continue turning it in same direction and remove.
2. Remove radiator filler plug and ’O’ ring to assist drainage.
3. Disconnect bottom hose from radiator. Drain coolant into a clean container. Reconnect bottom hose, re-tighten hose clamp.
NOTE: It is not possible to drain all coolant retained in heater system. It is not desirable to flush through system, after draining.
4. Remove engine drain plugs, one each side of cylinder block, beneath exhaust manifolds. Drain coolant, refit and tighten plugs.- After this step, I assume I should go ahead and change the tstat.

Replacing tstat:
1. Partially drain cooling system, until coolant level is below thermostat housing.
2. Disconnect hose from thermostat housing.
3. Disconnect electrical connections to water temperature switch.
4. Remove outlet elbow.
5. Withdraw thermostat.
Test
6. Note rating of thermostat is 88°C. Place thermostat in a container half full of water. Heat
water, observe temperature at which thermostat opens. Thermostat is satisfactory if it opens
between 85°C and 89°C.
Refit
7. Insert thermostat with jiggle pin/vent hole uppermost (12 o’clock position).
8. Fit the outlet elbow and new joint washer. Tighten to 28 Nm.
9. Reverse removal procedure. 1 to 3.
10. Check for coolant leaks around all connections and joint faces.

Fill Radiator: [/i][/i]
5. Pour correct solution of water and anti-freeze into expansion tank until radiator is full.
6. Start engine, run it until normal operating temperature is attained, topping up as necessary.
7. Refit radiator filler plug and ’O’ ring, with new ’O’ ring if required. Tighten to 6 Nm.
8. Fit expansion tank filler cap.
9. Allow engine to cool, check coolant level. Finally top up expansion tank until level reaches seam of expansion tank.

Do an engine flush before changing the oil:
Do you want me to seafoam here too? Should I drive it at all after seafoaming but before changing the oil?

Do an induction cleaning According to spike:

- Spike, I'm not exactly sure where the intake plenum is located.
Clean the throttle body :
I have no idea how to do this.

Add fuel additive to full gas tank: Should I just use seafoam or something else?

Change both of the diffs fluid:
1. Site vehicle on lift or level ground. Place container under axle to be drained.
2. Using a 13mm square drive wrench, remove drain and filler/level plugs from axle. Allow oil to drain completely. Clean and refit drain plug.
3. Inject new oil of recommended make and grade until it reaches level hole. Clean and refit filler/level plug and wipe away surplus oil.

Change the t/case oil :
1. Site vehicle on lift or level ground.
2. Disconnect battery negative lead.
3. Clean immediate area around filler/level and drain plugs.
WARNING: When draining gearbox care should be taken to ensure that oil is not hot as personal scalding could result.
4. Place a container under gearbox to drain oil into.
5. Remove filler/level plug to vent gearbox and assist draining.
6. Remove drain plug and allow oil to drain.
7. Thoroughly clean drain plug threads prior to applying fresh ’Hylomar’ sealant. Fit plug Tighten to 30 Nm.
8. Fill gearbox with correct quantity and grade of oil until oil seeps from filler level hole. Wipe away any surplus oil.
9. Thoroughly clean filler/level plug threads prior to applying fresh ’Hylomar’ sealant. Fit plug Tighten to 30 Nm.
10. Reconnect battery negative lead.

Replace the plugs and wires :
1. Remove the old plugs and replace with new.
2. THREAD THEM BY HAND.
3. Put the old wires back on.
4. Then take the old wires off one at a time so I don't get them mixed up.

Replace the air filter
Self explanatory.

Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts[/b] - again this seems self-explanatory, but I need to get a grease gun so I can do this correct?