Well my radiator is leaking on the bottom when it cools off (contraction). So I need to order a new one and get out the RAVE. Any tips or difficulties anyone can offer that has done this already? Many thanks in advance.

 

Easy enough. Don't screw the top two screws on either side in too far. If you haven't ordered, I like Nissens

 

This is how I would do it.

- Remove front grill.
- Remove both horns(13mm nut).
- Peel back top of foam behind horns just enough to expose rad bracket bolts, Remove brackets.
- Locate lower brackets that connect to AC condenser.
- Remove the bolts on these brackets at the front of the condenser- one on left is high hidden.
- Remove these brackets.
- Label brackets as to side and upper or lower.
- Now rad is loose.
- Wiggle to the best position to remove quick disconnects for trans and oil cooler(Oil cooler is on 99-02). They can seem impossible, pull back collar and twist connector off.

Once free, remove rad and coolers. Remove coolers and replace on new rad.

When re attaching cooler lines, attach one side, then prime the other side of the cooler. Best to get the cooler semi full of oil, then attach line before all the fluid drains out.

There are other write ups, all with their merits, my way is easiest for me.

 

^ Oh yes! I put 2 washers on the top screws. He is talking about the 2 that hold the lower fan shroud to the rad.

Also, Make sure you transfer the lower fan shroud clips from the old rad to the new, the bottom lip of shroud fits in-between the clips and the rad.

 

I basically did what abran said, but I did not disconnect or remove the coolers. There is one screw holding each cooler onto the radiator. Remove tne screw and slide the cooler over to remove the tab from the slot.

 

did not remove cooler lines when I did mine. went with a Nissens- so far, so good. good write-up abran.

 

Only other suggestion would be to replace the o-rings in the trans cooler lines (and oil cooler lines, if you have them) to prevent leaks. Sometimes those hose connections have to be worked pretty good to come off, so replacing the o-rings is simple and cheap insurance. It would be a shame to trade leaking coolant for leaking oil.

 

i learned the hard way the side effects of being stupid.... but the trail fix that Dusty came up with still works

 

yep thinking we should repackage and sell that repair kit......$3 tapered danco valve washer and bushing = $17 compression repair for radiator screw/tap leak.....

 

I also didn't remove the cooler lines...if you unscrew the one end of the cooler from the rad. you can separate it. With some risk of messing up those cooler fittings and them leaking I figured it was safer that way...also didn't want to lose any trans fluid.