Any tips for radiator replacement
#11
05-01-2015, 11:36 PM
I had an issue in swapping out my rad, perhaps someone can assist. Unfortunately due to work, about a month lapsed between when I pulled the old radiator out and installed the new Nissens rad. In reinstalling, I could not remember how to secure the transmission cooler to the radiator. I have not found a great picture depicting this in detail either, including the pictures in the RAVE.
Can anyone describe or show in a photo exactly how the cooler goes in relation to the radiator? Mine is well secured with some high-end zip ties, but obviously I don't want to run it like this long term.
Can anyone describe or show in a photo exactly how the cooler goes in relation to the radiator? Mine is well secured with some high-end zip ties, but obviously I don't want to run it like this long term.
#12
05-02-2015, 01:09 AM
Winching
I had an issue in swapping out my rad, perhaps someone can assist. Unfortunately due to work, about a month lapsed between when I pulled the old radiator out and installed the new Nissens rad. In reinstalling, I could not remember how to secure the transmission cooler to the radiator. I have not found a great picture depicting this in detail either, including the pictures in the RAVE.
Can anyone describe or show in a photo exactly how the cooler goes in relation to the radiator? Mine is well secured with some high-end zip ties, but obviously I don't want to run it like this long term.
Can anyone describe or show in a photo exactly how the cooler goes in relation to the radiator? Mine is well secured with some high-end zip ties, but obviously I don't want to run it like this long term.
#13
05-02-2015, 05:06 AM
It's a while since I changed or had the Rad out of a 4.0 V8 D2. The last time I did it was when fitting an electric fan to the rad and I took a few photos of the procedure.
I found the photos I took at the time and one just shows the rad from the front. You can see the left hand plastic header tank and can see 4 protruding blocks. The top one and 2nd from the bottom are the rad locating and fixing brackets and the bottom and 3rd one up are the fixing points for the oil coolers. Though it is not very clear the bottom bracket has a slot in it to receive the corresponding 'blade' on Left side of the bottom oil cooler. The corresponding bracket on the other side of the rad has a hole for the securing bolt to hold the other side of the cooler. Similarly the 2nd cooler has a slot for it on the right side of the rad and (as in the photo 3rd block up) a hole for the bolt on the left side.
Hope this is of some help.
I found the photos I took at the time and one just shows the rad from the front. You can see the left hand plastic header tank and can see 4 protruding blocks. The top one and 2nd from the bottom are the rad locating and fixing brackets and the bottom and 3rd one up are the fixing points for the oil coolers. Though it is not very clear the bottom bracket has a slot in it to receive the corresponding 'blade' on Left side of the bottom oil cooler. The corresponding bracket on the other side of the rad has a hole for the securing bolt to hold the other side of the cooler. Similarly the 2nd cooler has a slot for it on the right side of the rad and (as in the photo 3rd block up) a hole for the bolt on the left side.
Hope this is of some help.
#14
05-02-2015, 06:02 PM
Pro Wrench
#15
05-03-2015, 11:54 AM
Pro Wrench
Here are some pics I took of my swap to the Nissens radiator last summer. I hope these will be useful.
#17
05-06-2015, 02:25 AM
This is how I would do it.
- Remove front grill.
- Remove both horns(13mm nut).
- Peel back top of foam behind horns just enough to expose rad bracket bolts, Remove brackets.
- Locate lower brackets that connect to AC condenser.
- Remove the bolts on these brackets at the front of the condenser- one on left is high hidden.
- Remove these brackets.
- Label brackets as to side and upper or lower.
- Now rad is loose.
- Wiggle to the best position to remove quick disconnects for trans and oil cooler(Oil cooler is on 99-02). They can seem impossible, pull back collar and twist connector off.
Once free, remove rad and coolers. Remove coolers and replace on new rad.
When re attaching cooler lines, attach one side, then prime the other side of the cooler. Best to get the cooler semi full of oil, then attach line before all the fluid drains out.
There are other write ups, all with their merits, my way is easiest for me.
- Remove front grill.
- Remove both horns(13mm nut).
- Peel back top of foam behind horns just enough to expose rad bracket bolts, Remove brackets.
- Locate lower brackets that connect to AC condenser.
- Remove the bolts on these brackets at the front of the condenser- one on left is high hidden.
- Remove these brackets.
- Label brackets as to side and upper or lower.
- Now rad is loose.
- Wiggle to the best position to remove quick disconnects for trans and oil cooler(Oil cooler is on 99-02). They can seem impossible, pull back collar and twist connector off.
Once free, remove rad and coolers. Remove coolers and replace on new rad.
When re attaching cooler lines, attach one side, then prime the other side of the cooler. Best to get the cooler semi full of oil, then attach line before all the fluid drains out.
There are other write ups, all with their merits, my way is easiest for me.
#18
05-06-2015, 08:54 AM
The following users liked this post:
Charliegeosci (06-21-2020)
#19
05-06-2015, 10:28 AM
Not all D2s have 2 coolers but either way you'll know which goes where by looking at the fixing points on the cooler itself.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
alpinab7
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
0
11-29-2006 11:27 AM