My 2000 disco drivers door lock stopped working. The drivers key would turn but the door would not lock. I do not have a key fob, so this meant that my car was just left unlocked or I would use the inside button to lock all the other doors.

I have been meaning to get it fix but never got round to it. However today my wife was driving the car around town, making multiple stops with no problems. Then for some reason she jumped in to start it and nothing. After calling AAA and checking the battery etc he had to tow her home.Telling her it is probably the starter motor.

However after reading other threads on here I think it might actually be the Immobilizer. The red LED does not flash or even light at all.

I would be very grateful for any ideas.

PS i have tried the 1-5-1-5 thing but with no drivers lock it has no effect.

Thanks.

 

If the LED doesn't light at all, I wouldn't think it is immobilized.
If you cannot lock or unlock the doors with the key, the EKA (1515) will not work either. I would recommend troubleshooting the starter circuit, see if you are getting any power down to the solenoid. If you are, then I'd say starter. If you aren't then I'd start troubleshooting why not, including the alarm system.

 

Yeah you are pretty much screwed at this point, you need to get the lock fixed or you will never get the thing started.

 

1. You can test starter by unplugging starter relay in under hood fuse box. Jumper the normally open contact. Starter should engage.

2. You can bypass the driver door switch. What may have happened is the switch decided to work just long enough to arm the system, now won't disarm. You'll have to take off the driver's inside door panel, and unplug the connector. The switch momentarily shorts the purple/white wire on #6 pin to black wire on #5. Drawings attached from RAVE. Don't short multiple times quickly or you could initiate superlock.

 

Savannah. When you say jumper the normally open contact. What do you mean ?

 

The relay plugs into a socket. The relay has 5 pins, two are a coil (# 85 & 86), where 12 volts is sent by the vehicle at the correct time. The remaining three pins (87, 87A, 30) are the actual contacts. By shorting the contacts in the socket where #30 and #87 pins plug in, with a paper clip, the starter will engage if functional. Paper clip will get hot if you do this for more than a moment, use pliers to remove. See attached close up of drawing.

Since this bypasses safety systems, chock wheels, tranny in park, brake on, etc.

 

I am going to sound very stupid here, so I apologies in advance. Where is the relay located. I understand the diagram and how to short it. However I am just not sure which is the starter motor relay in the engine fuse box. When I pulled what I thought was the relay it only had 4 pins and not the 5 as suggested.

I tried bypassing the drivers door switch but no luck.

 

Attached from RAVE - we are talking about relay R2.

 

It was my starter motor. The place I had taken it to quoted me $400(reconditioned starter) plus $150 labor. Saying that he was charging me cost on the part.

I then looked online and found roverland was only a 40 min drive. I managed to pick up a reconditioned starter for $125.

All is well now. Except I still have a broken door lock. Ah well I will get round to that eventually, or someone will help themselves to my disco.

Thanks again for the help.

 

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Good deal.

I wonder who your shop was pricing their starter from. The part at autozone is only $91. The one you got from roverland is probably a better rebuild though, and if it has no core, it's and even better deal.