To the best of my knowledge, yes. What type of hoses should be installed and is that an expensive job?

 

After 12-years they have outlived there useful life span, you can get Stainless steel for about $130 a set.
I have no idea what a stock set would sell for, but i'm sure everyone carrys them.

 

No end to this problem, and now $700 into it. Have six new braided stainless brake hoses and careful bleeding using the computer and still cannot get satisfactory panic stop. There is a hesitation for a second or so when you hit the pedal hard, the vehicle slows a bit during this initial period, then a second phase initiates, and the rate of descent increases significantly, but it does not provide what could be described as a panic stop. Sometimes you can just feel the ABS kick in, but not the usual shudder provided on other makes and models. And not for a few seconds after you hit the pedal. On every other vehicle I have owned, when you hit the brakes in a panic stop, the ABS kicks in immediately and you get the best stop that vehicle, tire and road condition will allow. The service manager tells me this is as good as it gets with a Discovery ll. Mushy pedal and delayed panic stops. If that is so, then they were sold with a serious safety flaw. I am not yet convinced this is the case. Perhaps it is the master cylinder all along? What should my next large expenditure be in this quest?

 

Any update with this? I have a similar problem where I initally depress the brake pedal, the vehicle slowws but the pedal feels spongy. If i quickly release and depress again they get nice and tight/responsive.

I just ordered a set of stainless braded to replace my 13 yr old lines.

 

I have gone through this as well since I owned my D2 for 5 yrs now, and have pretty much decided that is the best the D2 will do. I replaced pads, rotors, upgraded to stainless brake hoses, full Synthetic Dot 4 brake replace and bleed. I have repaired the 3 Amigo problem on my ABS system and it now works in regard to ABS, TC and HDC. The brakes though tend to work more like older cars I drove when I was young having to pump the brakes rather than like other ABS systems I have used. First push is to pump, and then second gives me good stop.

I need to test the Master Cylinder like noted above, so will put that on my list to do here soon.

 

I had a spongy brake pedal that was soft on the first pump and firm on the second. It just took a methodical bleeding in the correct sequence the RAVE recommends. Follow this thread closely before ordering brake lines and parts:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e-fluid-23074/

It fixed my spongy pedal.

 

As for the OP pprussell, what else could it be? Sounds like you've taken every other step? That is definitely not how it should act, and it is not normal or "as good as it gets". I had the double pump issue to get a good strong pedal which was fixed with proper bleeding. My 2001 still has the OEM brake lines. I admit it's not as strong as other newer suv's I have driven but, it's certainly sufficient for what you describe as a panic stop, and that's without any noticeable latency when I press the pedal hard.

 

Which order did you bleed the brakes that gave you these good results? RAVE instructs for LHD to do Pass.Front - DriverFront-Pass.Rear-DriverRear order which I followed, while other people say another order to use going back to front. Having no success, I then did a gravity bleed on each wheel one at a time for an 15-20 minutes per wheel. Drip .. Drip .. Drip ... Still spongy pedal on first push.

 

bleed from the furthest point to the shortest point, IE. RR LR, RF & LF

 

That was the order I did it in. The first time my wife drove the car she was freaked out because you could slam on the brake pedal and it'd go to the floor without much stopping power. After bleeding in that sequence, and it took a few attempts, it now feels firm like a normal pedal without the double pump. I used the one man bleeder hose shown in that thread. On each tire I spent a good few minutes pumping slowly on the brake pedal forcing out fluid while keeping the tank topped off with new dot 4. I suppose if that doesn't fix it for you, and you have replaced the lines and such, you'd be looking at the master cylinder next?