Ball Joint Trouble
#1
Ball Joint Trouble
Hi everyone,
I took it upon myself to replace the 4 ball joints on the 03' D2 this weekend. Everything went fine pressing out the old ones. Then I started pressing in the new ones and by the time I got to the last one, the passenger side upper, it was loose in the axle socket. I measured it out to 0.015” too small. I read that these interference fit sockets in the axle are only good for 3 replacements. Maybe I pressed out the old one sideways but it didn’t seem like it at the time. I realize that a new axle case is the correct solution, but to get back on the road in the meantime I just added some steel shim stock and then carefully tack welded the top flange of the ball joint to the axle in four places. This should keep it from rotating in the socket. Again, the lower ball joint pressed in fine. So, my question for the group: how long would you drive on it? I feel pretty comfortable looking at how the assembly functions that will be fine but apparently, I am crazy, according to my wife. I welcome any advice or scolding.
I took it upon myself to replace the 4 ball joints on the 03' D2 this weekend. Everything went fine pressing out the old ones. Then I started pressing in the new ones and by the time I got to the last one, the passenger side upper, it was loose in the axle socket. I measured it out to 0.015” too small. I read that these interference fit sockets in the axle are only good for 3 replacements. Maybe I pressed out the old one sideways but it didn’t seem like it at the time. I realize that a new axle case is the correct solution, but to get back on the road in the meantime I just added some steel shim stock and then carefully tack welded the top flange of the ball joint to the axle in four places. This should keep it from rotating in the socket. Again, the lower ball joint pressed in fine. So, my question for the group: how long would you drive on it? I feel pretty comfortable looking at how the assembly functions that will be fine but apparently, I am crazy, according to my wife. I welcome any advice or scolding.
#2
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: St. Clair County, Michigan
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I've welded them in before, for folks that just refused to buy new upper control arms or they were totally broke. I did a bit more welding than you, but took care to wait between welds...so as not to damage the rubber boot or boil out the grease. Did a dodge one ton once, they had those screw in uppers and the threads would rust away, guy drove it like that for ten years.
If you look at your diagram...there really isn't any place it can go. The steering knuckle flanges are below the lower and upper axle housing, and the lower ball joint supports most of the weight. If it did come loose, weld breaks, it can only move a minimal amount.
Me, l'd add a bit more weld and maybe dail her up some for a bit more penentration.
Brian.
If you look at your diagram...there really isn't any place it can go. The steering knuckle flanges are below the lower and upper axle housing, and the lower ball joint supports most of the weight. If it did come loose, weld breaks, it can only move a minimal amount.
Me, l'd add a bit more weld and maybe dail her up some for a bit more penentration.
Brian.
#4
#5
Thanks Brian! I'm glad that you came to the same conclusion that I did about the drawing. I was worried about welding too much as there is a plastic part in the ball joint that could melt. I must say that the new ball joints make a huge difference. Prior going over small bumps was a teeth gnashing bang now its a smooth thump.
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