battery light on then died and wont start
hi need help... I have a problem with the battery light came on yesterday. today a few other lights came on then the battery died. I got a jump it started but as soon as the cables were off it die again and would not start. what could it be? plz any answers
You have a dead battery because the alternator has stopped charging the battery (the light that came on). A battery has a "reserve rating" of maybe 100 minutes or so, which is how long it will go with 25 amp load. If you have a volt meter ($5 at Harbor Freight), the volts acoss the battery posts when truck is running at idle should be 13.8 - 14.4 volts. When replacing alternator, be sure belt goes back on in same route. Draw route before you take it off. Alternators are like $30 at junk yard, maybe $100 or a little more to have repaired at an alternator shop. If buying from a chain store, get the lifetime warranty, re-man units from these outfits have a high failure rate, carry copy of receipt in truck, you don't know where you'll be when it dies.
I should have also pointed out the obvious work around until repairs can be made is to charge up battery with an electric charger, then only drive a short distance, plug in charger again to boost it back up, then drive home. A brand new battery may have 120 minute reserve, an older one will be less, maybe 30 minutes. Don't run AC or radio. Don't take routes that make you deal with stop and go traffic. I once limped a vehicle back from 125 miles away by carrying a second fully charged battery and swapping them out, had to unplug one head light, etc.
What usually wears out is the graphite "sticks" that are used as "brushes" to carry power from the rotating part of the alternator. They simply wear away slowly every day and eventually can't make contact anymore. An electronic regulator is also in there, it can go at anytime, as it also is controlled by Murphy's Law #256.a.56(b) "crtical path elements shall fail when distance from source of supply is at the greatest point."
What usually wears out is the graphite "sticks" that are used as "brushes" to carry power from the rotating part of the alternator. They simply wear away slowly every day and eventually can't make contact anymore. An electronic regulator is also in there, it can go at anytime, as it also is controlled by Murphy's Law #256.a.56(b) "crtical path elements shall fail when distance from source of supply is at the greatest point."
before my alternated went out I was having a problem with the truck. in a stop and go traffic it would have a slow take off and have to build up speed. it would pop under the hood somewhere the pick up speed. does anyone know that is or was it part of the alternated problem?
The best thing to do would be to have your battery charged, re-install it and drive to a local parts store to have a free charging system test performed. Voltage while running has to be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts.
If the alternator is bad, do not buy a rebuilt, they have a very high failure rate, go to British Parts of Utah foe a good price on a new one.
If the alternator is bad, do not buy a rebuilt, they have a very high failure rate, go to British Parts of Utah foe a good price on a new one.
Honey I just had my battery and alternator checked at autozone for nothing. I buy a new battery every 2 years so thought it a good idea since the truck sat for 2 days and drained the battery. All mine were inline but I switched to a Optima battery. I had the new battery about 10 months and they gave me back the whole original purchase price and applied it to the Optima.
The pop sound you heard was probably backfires.
When the battery was going lower and lower the ECU and timing of the truck
could not be established.
I bet the truck died right after the pops?
You probably just need a new alternator and you'll be just fine.
When the battery was going lower and lower the ECU and timing of the truck
could not be established.
I bet the truck died right after the pops?
You probably just need a new alternator and you'll be just fine.
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