So here's the story so far. I have a 2004 Disco II (NAS) just had a head gasket replacement done, got the car home, drove it 2 miles the following day, then it wouldn't start. It cranked, but no spark. Dash lights were S&M flashing, "Service Engine Soon", TC, HDC, Oil pressure and alternator charge lights all on.
Its also had new cables/plugs, expansion tank.

Took it to a local mechanic, it kicked out a P1673, they then went through everything, Crank sensor, Fuel pump pump relay, alternator, battery, grounds - all were normal.

It looks like the immobilizer has gone off, and won't reset. So we're left with its something to do with the BeCM (Never had BeCM symptoms before though), ECU, the FOB chip or any combination of the above. Still got to try the generic 1515 code but there seems to be various ways of doing it, and to make matters even better the drivers door lock won't operate the central locking system.

I'm 500 miles away from the nearest stealership and it'll be $1000 for the tow, and up to $2500 more for a replacement BeCM with reprogramming. I'm already $2000 down for all the work so far. does anyone have any ideas what to do next.

I'm in North Dakota by the way.

 

see 01 P38 4.6 HSE immobiliser problem! - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

You may be able to find an indy shop with a Rovercom which can also re-sync it. You have lost communication between the BeCM and the ECU, perhaps by any number of smal electrical problems. But they don't re-lear each other without help from a Testbook (dealer computer) or a Rover specific computer.

Trying to bypass it would be difficult as the ECU is programmed to check with the BeCU.

Driver's door has a separate momentary switch hanging on it that operates things, it can go bad.

When you say you are down $2K, you mean that mechanic actually replaced the items you listed?

From RAVE:


the key into the ignition switch will induce a signal in the exciter coil to re-mobilise the vehicle

and

The alarm system relies upon the vehicle battery for power. However, the BCU remembers the status of the security
system if it loses battery supply. If the security system was in a set condition when battery supply was lost the BCU
will trigger the alarm and initiate a visual warning by flashing the hazard lamps when the battery voltage is restored.

On vehicles with a BBUS fitted, the BBUS will sound if the battery is disconnected while the alarm system is set.

and

When the BCU receives a crank signal from the ignition switch, an earth path is completed to the starter relay coil,
provided that the security system has been de-activated. If the ECM has not received a valid unlock/ remobilise signal,
the starter relay will be disengaged and the engine stopped. The BCU also receives an engine running signal from
the instrument pack, so that if the ignition key is turned to the crank position while the engine is running, the starter
motor relay will not be engaged.
If the logic conditions are correct to allow starter operation, the completion of the earth path from the starter relay coil
to the BCU energises the coil and the relay contacts close to supply battery power to the starter motor.
When the ignition switch is released from the crank position, the power supply feed from the ignition switch to the
starter relay coil is interrupted and the relay contacts open to prevent further battery feed to the starter motor.
If a communications link failure is experienced, the BCU will be prevented from detecting the 'engine running'
condition and the BCU will default to assume that the engine is not running.

The signals from the BCU to ECM are sent both ways on a light green / slate (grey) wire - from pin 10 of C0661 at the BCU to Pin 33 of C0637 of the ECU. If this wire is cut or grounded they can't talk to each other. If your connectors were covered with goop from a sunroof or other leak, the units would think the car was attacked. Protect the crown jewels sequence is initiated. It becomes a Royal PITA. The signals on this wire are serial data, 0-12 volts, not sure what you would see with a meter, but that is what would be there on a scope.

You may want to contact ROVACOM (Black Box) Blackbox Solutions Ltd - Designers and manufacturers of the best vehicle diagnostic tools. and see if they have any shops that own one of their units in your area. You might also look at what renting a trailer and tow vehicle would run, and possibly "dead head" haul back arrangements for trucking or recovery companies, or trucks that service the local car auctions (no driver want's to be hauling a load of "dispatcher's brains.")

 

More thoughts - if wire / connector cean up no fix, consider rening a low boy equipment trailer (like for back hoes, etc.). They rent for about $85 a day near me (Hertz Equipment Rental), can carry two Rovers (weight wise) and can be pulled by a one ton pickup (your friend).

If the ROvercom distributor doesn't have anyone near you, find one somewhere (or dealer) and ask them if you could FedEx the ECU and the BCU to be synced. Would have to tell CU ot to flash odometer for no match.

 

The DII has a BCU, P38s have the BeCM - semantics I know but clarification may be helpful as the two operate in completely different ways and the DII isn't plagued by the same issues common to the P38.

A standard code reader won't reset the immobilizer code, it will clear and them just keep coming back. You need a shop with autologic, faultmate/rovacom etc to clear it up.

If you have two keys try locking and unlocking the vehicle with the other FOB, it may work. If not it's time for someone with the proper software. Also if you have to go that route have them give you your EKA (emergency key access) code and keep it somewhere safe. If you have that code you can unlock the BCU if it ever becomes locked at some point.

If the FOBS won't lock or unlock the vehicle remotely you could have a bad receiver. Rare, but it does happen.

 

If it cranks, but no spark, I wouldn't think BCU. I had a BCU and ECM that got wet on my 99, and it would start and then immediately die, because it had lost it's security synchronization, or they couldn't talk to each other anymore. I got a ECM and BCU from the SAME truck out of a salvage yard and it worked. Odometer will blink. And I had to use the generic EKA, 1515.

If you aren't getting any spark, I'd troubleshoot that. If the alarm is messed up, it won't crank either. If it's the security sync between the ECM and BCU it will start and then die.

 

check to make sure the bcm has power at all of its connectors and that it lights up a test light. at the same time take a look under the fuseboxes for issues with corrosion. same with the ecu. Does the security light go out? If you clear the code and start it does it give the same code. Finally in theory according to my resources you can use an used bcu without repgming. it should start. but only an bcu. ecu needs to learn the code.

the code is for a unlearned engine control module though. not the bcu.

 

Unfortunately you can't swap the BCU without performing a security learn on the ECM. Replace either the Motronic or BCU and a relearn is necessary but going used is not an problem with either. Hope you get your problem sorted without that being relevant though.

 

Thanks for all the input, figured out why the EKA wouldn't work, the rod that connects the drivers door to the central locking thing is snapped.

In the meantime I did some soul searching and its cheaper for me to buy a new car and keep the disco as a project, work on it when the weather warms up and I can afford some tools and stuff.

First thing I'll get is a rovacom lite.

Its just extremely frustrating spending so much time and money.

 

LR uses a computer that dealerships have and some local repair shops . Here's the bottom line to all of the talk on the internet regarding this problem .

The OBD scanner by Bosch will not fix this. It clears the code . It does not re sync the BeCm.

Videos on the internet may show you a person starting a car bypassing this system but they do not explain how they do this in a way that you can use the info to start your car.

The code is not going to help you
The key pad won't help you

It's not a fuel pump or sensor. It could be but anyone who replaces a fuel pump and didn't check the no spark doesn't need to work on a car .

You need to go to any shop not just s dealer but a shop that has the 15,000 dollar scanner computer and that computer will re sync your car.

If the shop wants to throw in a fuel pump you need to tell them no . The cam sensor or crank sensor are not the problem either. Not on a Landy. Dealers will sell you one of those.
They will charge you about $150 or typically one hour maybe two hours for them to use your computer and to re-sync but BeCM.
I have a 98 LR RR

You may argue with me but I am speaking fact. I don't care if you think or you know how to do something. I am telling this is how to make your car get spark and drive and solve this problem. Everything else is just someone trying to sell me something that won't work.

I read everything and I am only giving you facts. If you chime in I want to clarify.... nothing you did helped me start my car. What you think or what you did to your car did not start my car

I love all of you and appreciate you trying to help me but this is what people need to know
If you want to show me up email me directly and come start my car. I mean come here in person and show me in person. No talking just show me and I will shut up and listen.

Tow your car to a dealer , go to a Land Rover Independant shop with a LR computer or ask your friend to bring a Land Rover computer to your house . Those are your option to a code P1672 .
References: P1672, no spark no start BeCm resync disarm Alarm code