Best way to go about front driveshaft: New Disco II owner
Howdy folks.
Just bought a 2001 Disco II at a local auction for $2000. Looks like a mommy with 3 messy kids had it otherwise very clean. 126,000 miles currently. No mechanic issues other than a seeping valve cover gasket. Its at the detailers now since I like wrenching on a clean vehicle.
Coolant looks clean and at proper level. Same for the oil. Planning on changing both. Read that its good preventative on the coolant with these for the head gasket's sake. I'm a bit wary since I had a HG fail right after using the pressurized machine and fresh Dex-Cool on a Cadillac years ago. Junked the car. I'm hoping the HG issue isn't as widespread as it is with the GM Northstar.
Biggest hurdle I want to get by is the front drive shaft. I do not want it to catastrophically fail. How does one tell if it has been addressed, and if not, what should a budget minded person do about it?
Am I missing anything else? I'll post a few photos once she's out of the detailers. Only cosmetic issues is a few little spots oxidation on the roof and a cracked rear bumper cover.
Just bought a 2001 Disco II at a local auction for $2000. Looks like a mommy with 3 messy kids had it otherwise very clean. 126,000 miles currently. No mechanic issues other than a seeping valve cover gasket. Its at the detailers now since I like wrenching on a clean vehicle.
Coolant looks clean and at proper level. Same for the oil. Planning on changing both. Read that its good preventative on the coolant with these for the head gasket's sake. I'm a bit wary since I had a HG fail right after using the pressurized machine and fresh Dex-Cool on a Cadillac years ago. Junked the car. I'm hoping the HG issue isn't as widespread as it is with the GM Northstar.
Biggest hurdle I want to get by is the front drive shaft. I do not want it to catastrophically fail. How does one tell if it has been addressed, and if not, what should a budget minded person do about it?
Am I missing anything else? I'll post a few photos once she's out of the detailers. Only cosmetic issues is a few little spots oxidation on the roof and a cracked rear bumper cover.
you need to get under the truck and see if the front drive shaft has zerk fittings on the two rear u joints.
zerks looks like this
if it doesnt then you will have to rebuild the shaft. there is a write up in the tech section. that is the cheapest way to remedy this. rebuild it yourself. you will find out most of the time the cheapest fix. is to install it yourself. whether it is new or used.
zerks looks like this

if it doesnt then you will have to rebuild the shaft. there is a write up in the tech section. that is the cheapest way to remedy this. rebuild it yourself. you will find out most of the time the cheapest fix. is to install it yourself. whether it is new or used.
Valve covers snug up each oil change with 8mm 12 point slim socket. Full factory tech and owners manuals, free download below, called the RAVE. Tech section also has a high miles list of things to do.
Please don't use Dexcool in the Rover. Green or yellow is good. About time for water pump (1 hour). Lots of things to lube. D2 has overkill electronics, need a very good battery.
Please don't use Dexcool in the Rover. Green or yellow is good. About time for water pump (1 hour). Lots of things to lube. D2 has overkill electronics, need a very good battery.
I bought a new one for $345.00 shipped from DriveShaft Power Inc DriveShaft Power Inc. Home 561.433.1200. Its a lot beefier than the factory one and is greasable. Granted its a little costly but it bolted right in.
It tells you, among other things, how to determine the likelihood of it having been rebuilt.
My strong recommendation is to treat it as never having been, regardless of what you find since you have no way to know how it's been maintained.
As for your method of checking fluid, you never look at them and say they they look good. With your mileages you need a complete major service, see list posted at the top of the section, or somewhere soon your truck is going to give you a costly surprise.
Do your self a favor and do everything on that list before you do anything else, it will save you in the long run.
Do your self a favor and do everything on that list before you do anything else, it will save you in the long run.
As for your method of checking fluid, you never look at them and say they they look good. With your mileages you need a complete major service, see list posted at the top of the section, or somewhere soon your truck is going to give you a costly surprise.
Do your self a favor and do everything on that list before you do anything else, it will save you in the long run.
Do your self a favor and do everything on that list before you do anything else, it will save you in the long run.
No, all DII's are the same as yours. It would only be if someone had rebuilt one at some point in the past. But even that doesn't mean it's in better shape than yours. If it was rebuilt with greaseable u-joints then rarely/never greased it would likely be in worse shape than yours.


