Bleed Screw Fitting & Hose?
Wondering if anyone has experience rigging up some sort of fitting & tube system to the bleed screw hole so that the coolant doesn't just spill out all over the fan, belt, pulleys, etc etc when bleeding.
Would be great to get specs on exact size and dimensions of items needed since I have a hardware and auto parts stores within walking distance of my office. Thanks!
Also, since I'm going to be losing some coolant, was thinking of adding a bottle of this stuff (or similar/better option). Any opinions on these coolant enhancers? Do they work? I'm maxing at 204 these days and wouldn't mind to see my idle temp go down a couple notches...
Would be great to get specs on exact size and dimensions of items needed since I have a hardware and auto parts stores within walking distance of my office. Thanks!
Also, since I'm going to be losing some coolant, was thinking of adding a bottle of this stuff (or similar/better option). Any opinions on these coolant enhancers? Do they work? I'm maxing at 204 these days and wouldn't mind to see my idle temp go down a couple notches...
You shouldn't need to add anything at the bleed screw. The bleed screw is just that, a bleed.
Proper use of it is to crack it open while the engine is running and only open it as far as it needs to go for fluid to start coming out(this should be done cold or cool, and not when at full operating temp) and as the fluid is seeping out of the bleed screw, you'll see when you are getting air and water out of it vs just water. Cynch it back down when you only have smooth, non-aerated coolant coming out of it. Similar concept to bleeding your brakes if you are familiar with the process and how it looks when you are getting fluid with air out vs just clean fluid
Proper use of it is to crack it open while the engine is running and only open it as far as it needs to go for fluid to start coming out(this should be done cold or cool, and not when at full operating temp) and as the fluid is seeping out of the bleed screw, you'll see when you are getting air and water out of it vs just water. Cynch it back down when you only have smooth, non-aerated coolant coming out of it. Similar concept to bleeding your brakes if you are familiar with the process and how it looks when you are getting fluid with air out vs just clean fluid
Water Wetter and 180 degree thermostat. My engine runs 93-96c lik clockwork, but I live in the desert.
Last edited by Frtpilot; Nov 27, 2018 at 09:51 PM. Reason: Autu-correct is less than intelligent...
You shouldn't need to add anything at the bleed screw. The bleed screw is just that, a bleed.
Proper use of it is to crack it open while the engine is running and only open it as far as it needs to go for fluid to start coming out(this should be done cold or cool, and not when at full operating temp) and as the fluid is seeping out of the bleed screw, you'll see when you are getting air and water out of it vs just water. Cynch it back down when you only have smooth, non-aerated coolant coming out of it. Similar concept to bleeding your brakes if you are familiar with the process and how it looks when you are getting fluid with air out vs just clean fluid
Proper use of it is to crack it open while the engine is running and only open it as far as it needs to go for fluid to start coming out(this should be done cold or cool, and not when at full operating temp) and as the fluid is seeping out of the bleed screw, you'll see when you are getting air and water out of it vs just water. Cynch it back down when you only have smooth, non-aerated coolant coming out of it. Similar concept to bleeding your brakes if you are familiar with the process and how it looks when you are getting fluid with air out vs just clean fluid
Right, I have been doing this but I feel like I have a *deep bubble* somewhere and would like to let the coolant flow freely out of the bleeder until I'm confident I'm getting ALL the bubbles out. This makes a mess so I would like to rig a hose from the bleeder so I can just collect the coolant coming out in a tidy way, rather than letting it drip everywhere.
Another good way to get air bubbles out is to burp the hoses. Squeeze the hoses multiple times(lower rad hose is the usual suspect) and if there is an air pocket, it will get pushed and made to cycle around in the coolant flow. I've never had to do anything with moving the bottle, lifting the truck, etc. Best to do with car off, or with car cold/cool. ***CAREFUL OF THE FAN IF THE CAR IS RUNNING***
You will see the coolant level rising/falling with each squeeze of the hose and you will see air bubbles burp back into the reservoir if you moved an air pocket out
You will see the coolant level rising/falling with each squeeze of the hose and you will see air bubbles burp back into the reservoir if you moved an air pocket out
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