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Brakes removal HELP Please!!

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  #11  
Old 06-22-2009 | 10:43 PM
bangkuaidiscovery04's Avatar
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From: Orlando, FL
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Originally Posted by 04BluDisco
By the way, perhaps one of the faster brake jobs I have done. Had the new rotors and pads on in an hour... super easy.... Thanks for all the help here.
Blue Disco just wondering what tools you needed and what type of brakes you installed. My Diso is in dire need of new rotors and brakes and I am looking into buying the EBC Performance Brake Rebuilt kit for AB. Also wondering if you had any specific instructions. Thank you very much for the help.
 
  #12  
Old 06-23-2009 | 06:37 AM
Chrisinhouston's Avatar
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From: Houston, Texas
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I have some images and instructions here:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=22666
 
  #13  
Old 06-24-2009 | 11:25 PM
bangkuaidiscovery04's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Chrisinhouston
I have some images and instructions here:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=22666
Thank you very much
 
  #14  
Old 06-25-2009 | 04:28 AM
Urban Panzer's Avatar
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From: UK
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or whole job start to fininsh

http://www.discovery2.co.uk/brakes.html
 
  #15  
Old 06-25-2009 | 08:28 AM
oysterhead's Avatar
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Nice link UPanzer!

But this is an old wives' tale, right? "For road use drilled and slotted discs (EBC) can improve braking performance no end on the Discovery as its a heavy old truck to bring to a halt, how ever, "if" you take your truck off road in the mud on regular occasions, slotted and drilled discs "can" fill up with mud and muck and you could damage the disc face when braking"
 
  #16  
Old 06-25-2009 | 09:32 AM
04BluDisco's Avatar
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I used the Ferodo Brake rebuilding Kit from Atlantic British (nicely redesigned new website too) http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9991D2F.cfm

For tools, pretty standard stuff. Torque wrench (don't guess), impact driver (bought one at schucks for $10), and a C- Clamp. I also have a turkey baster for removing fluid from the resevoir so it doesn't overflow as you compress the calipers to get them off the rotors and all the way down to the bottom of the travel.

Unbolt the two big caliper bolts. You have to turn the wheel to get at the top bolt. Make sure not to bend the ABS sensor, or brake line hose. Once unbolted, use the C-Clamp to further compress the caliper to the full "open" position so that it comes off the rotor. Hang the caliper from the spring by one of the bolt holes so it doesn't strain the brake lines. I use Zip ties and just throw them away when done.

Use the impact driver to get the locator screw loose in the rotor and remove. Get a rubber mallet and beat on the rotor. If both front wheels are in the air, you can rotate them and work it off the wheel studs. This took me a while, but with a litte WD-40 on the studs and some beating with the mallet, it came off. Take a C clamp and open the Caliper all the way up while you have the pads in the Caliper.

I coated the studs and the hub that is in contact with the rotor with anti-sieze compound to make it easier next time.

The Ferodo pads I had were already coated with a sticky anti-squeak compound, so I didn't need to spray them with this stuff. Install in reverse order. Make sure to get all the ABS wires and brake lines back in properly.

Hope this helps.

J
 
  #17  
Old 06-25-2009 | 10:03 AM
lipadj46's Avatar
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Also note that the rotors will not always just pull off, especially if they are old you may need to beat them of with a small sledge hammer from the rear rotate a quarter turn and repeat until they let go. I use a piece of 2x4 just to pad things so it is not metal on metal.
 
  #18  
Old 06-25-2009 | 10:38 AM
04BluDisco's Avatar
Mudding
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Nice link posted by UrbanPanzer - http://www.discovery2.co.uk/brakes.html

I noticed the site actually seperated the halves of the caliper, instead of removing the whole caliper... this might be a better method than what I did.
 
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