Julian, you know that isn't true. Please don't make libelous comments about us like that. Proline is an aftermarket parts name. Occasionally parts will be very close to similar, but not always. There's a reason the genuine motor is $200+ and the aftermarket is $80. Instead of spending the time starting a thread, why not just test power at the motor?

 

Lets not pretend Mr Zack.... your Proline brand of aftermarket parts are complete rubbish. Ive spent more money with RN than most the folks on here and I put my faith in the "budget brand". Axle shaft seals, brake calipers, abs sensors, o2 sensors, your driveshaft and possibly your window motors are complete rubbish. Lesson learned and I stick with Genuine now. By the way you are the one who tried to assure me that your Proline brand of aftermarket parts are as good as Genuine. Perhaps I need to start recording/screen-shoting our discussions? I expect the parts I replace to last as long as the original Genuine parts fitted on the truck from the factory.

Offroad: My truck has been running just fine for too long now. No major issues whatsoever, least non mechanical/electrical related. The old girl took a beating during afew trail runs and the oil sump drain hole threads are worn and thus causing a minor oil leak but otherwise no complaints..... until the window stopped working.

Im not fond of electrical work and dont really understand wires, grounds and testers. Not sure what Im looking for. I pulled up the seat switch base panel and took a look down where all the seat and window wires feed from and most everything looks in order. No burn wires and the wires are tight when you tug on them. There is one brown plastic connector that is unplugged but I cant seem to locate the port where it connects. Looks like its a different feed of wires and unrelated to the front drive switch wires. I see a silver metal box unit well below the cubby but I cant really reach it from up front. I assume you guys are advising I inspect below the cubby from the back side? If so it looks as though I would have to disconnect and pull up the entire center console from the rear end in order to visually inspect below the cubby area. How exactly would I go about testing the motor itself? I imagine I would need one of those electric volt reader units that comes with 2 prongs attached via wire tot he main unit? If so where would I attach the prongs to get a reading of the motor? Also is there a way to manually roll the window up or would that mess up the alignment between the motor and the regulator?

 

My friend @starlordess had a similar issue with her RRC window. Mechanic told her the window ecu was fried. Instead I advised her to remove the door card to access the motor and connect a small 12vbattery to the motor. Doing this, you're bypassing switches etc. attach one wire to the battery negative terminal, one to positive and touch them to the terminals on the motor. If it operates but goes the wrong way, reverse the widea to get it to raise.

She got the window raised on her rrc in the middle of a rainstorm with a flat car battery, no tools and in the dark. So you can too. Just take your time removing the door card. if the motor is bad, you're going to need to replace it
anyways.

 

Thanks for the details, Ill give it a try tomorrow! I have a door panel popper tool so the job will be a fly

 

Haha, yes please Julian, screenshot where I said all proline parts are as good as genuine. There's a reason they're less expensive.

And yes, please keep explaining how it's "our" issue. Proline parts are no different than what lucky8, AB, Miami British, or your favored U.K. Suppliers sell you. You were of course the one that thought you saved a ton buying "genuine" brake parts from the UK only to find out you saved almost nothing had you bought from Lucky8 when you received britpart products. Or should I post that thread for your memory?

 

Interestingly Ive also spent a great deal of money on parts through AB over the years, and the only part that ever failed me was a set of Magnecor ignition wires! So two different vendors apparently using same brand parts (according to Rovers North sales rep) for some reason all your parts are junk. The only issue with AB is accuracy. Took them 3 tries to send me the correct brake booster servo. 2 tries for a muffler etc. Rovers North is a complete joke and a disgrace. Better they close their doors sooner than later so you can take a job at AB

 

Haha! Yes Julian, total disgrace. All our parts are junk(again, you're buying almost all the same parts from us, AB, L8, JC, LRD, Paddocks, etc). At least we tell you honestly what's genuine and what isn't, instead of making you look like a fool posting on LRF about your "epic savings" then receiving Britpart items from Craddocks. In case you forgot, here's you looking like an idiot - https://landroverforums.com/forum/of...22-89-a-83629/

But please, please keep buying overseas. It may save you enough money to take your trip to AK so we can follow that trainwreck of an adventure!

 

In the name of Poseidon, Neptune, and the Good Lord above, I pray for your crewmates and the families that love them that you aren't in charge of maintaining anything more complex than a chum pot on the boat you work on, Julian.

Your truck is a rolling shrine to Throwing Good Money After Bad.

 

I'd check the switch itself. swap the passenger window switch with the driver's switch to see if that works.
I've found corroded contacts inside the switches. A wire brush or fine sand paper cleans it good.

 

Only reason I suggested checking the motor first was that using a known good switch, doesn't eliminate bad wiring from switch to the motor.

But, if the motor is good, then your problem is getting power to it, which could be either the wiring or the switch.

swapping out the switch is a quick thing to check though. I'd probably confirm that the switch on the "dead" window isn't the problem by moving it to the passenger window and ensuring that it can operate that window.

if it's not the motor, and not the switch then there's nothing for it and you have to break out the multimeter.