Warped rotors seems to be the least probable cause from what I have read in deep analysis reports.
Rotors contamination seem more plausible, by uneven deposits that cause areas of more and less grab/friction.
Pads contamination transferring its problem to rotors and bonding the impurities to the disc surface.
Contamination can come from unclean procedures at replacement, road asphalt splashes, tire cleaning chemicals splashing, dust, oil, grease, brake fluid splashes, river crossings, car wash chemicals, mud, even insect guts.
Overtightened wheel lugs, worn wheel bearings, flat spotted tires, bad tires.

Do ceramic brake pads behave as a magic bullet to avoid brake degradation into pulsing or there is no such proof ?
Do ceramic pads 'self clean' friction surfaces or is such a myth ?

Read consensus recommendations here about the Akebonos; what differs from other pad compositions about pulsing, (not about braking power) ?
Does anyone here has pulsing brakes with ceramic pads ?

 

Warped rotors will certainly make brakes pulsate, more noticed when applied.

Brakes wear down. Rovers are heavy. Brakes wear down faster. No magic bullet except to be a long haul driver and coast into the gas stations.

 

Over braking on mountain roads, hard driving and cheap pads will warp your rotors.
Nuy a good replacement set along with a set of Akebon ceramic pads and you'll be fine.
Also make sure to do a full 2 quarts SOT 4 brake flush cause if you warped your rotors, your fluid will most likely be burned.

 

"Warped rotors seems to be the least probable cause from what I have read in deep analysis reports."
I don't know where you got that information from but warped rotors are the #1 cause of brake pulsating.

 

What the op is referring to is that there is evidence that rotors do not truly warp but the pulsating is due to uneven deposits on the surface of the rotor

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

 

Rotors that are installed with lugs that aren't tightened evenly always result in pulsing brakes for me. The initial paragraph on that link notes "lugs torqued in the correct order and to the correct value" as one of the requirements. I have only seen a torque wrench used to tighten lug nuts at a shop once in all the times I've had tires replaced or rotated, and whenever I have had tire removed at a shop a quick check of the torques shows them to all be different. Heat will transfer out of a rotor at different rates depending on the clamping force where it mounts.

 

If it was just deposits there would be snake oil for that ( Lucas Brake Disk Revitalizer Formula 73 ).....