Changed the brake fluid today on the 2003 D2. Used Castrol LMA fluid (took a little more than a quart total).

I had to toss my old pressure bleeder -- had a steel tank and after having it sit unusedfor years the steel must have rusted and it was filled with debris. I would ordinarily have cleaned it but with these new ABS systems, I wanted a "clean room" type environment for anything that goes in the reservoir so I decided not to use it and get a new one.

I used the universal stylepressure bleeder British Pacific sells. Made of plastic so it can't rust like my old one did.

http://www.landroverparts.us/LandRov...overTools.html

The universal adapter on the bleeder is actually a little too narrow to fit over the wide D2 reservoir so I improvised with what I had quick and close at hand -- I took a large paint stirrer stick (the kind for 5 gal. pails), drilled two holes in it a little farther apart than the width of the reservoir, carved a notch in the middle so it would fit around the tube of the pressure bleeder cap, and placed it over the pressure bleeder cap on top of the reservoir. The j bolts went through the holes in the stick, the chain beneath the master cylinder as usual and tightening the whole thing up squeezed the pressure bleeder cap onto the reservoir between the stick on top and the chain under the master cylinder below. Kind of a sandwich. Next time I do it I'll fabricate something a little more snazzy out of a 1"x1/8" scrap of steel stock about 7" long. I plan to change the brake fluid every two years so I have plenty of time to cobble up the perfect system.before next time.

Before fitting the pressure bleeder I removed as much of the old fliud from the reservoir as possible using a syringe and refilled the reservoir with new fluid.

The bleed screws on the calipers are 11mm so use an 11mm box end wrench over a piece of clear hose on the bleed screw (I used a piece I've had on hand for eons, but I'd guess the hose size to be 3/16" -- if it's too tight, do what I did to mine years ago; heat the end with a match or lighter and press it over the bleed screw while it's still warm; it will mould itself to the exact size for a perfect, tight fit over most bleed screws).

Using the pressure bleeder, had the system well flushed and showing clear new fluid at each caliper in a few minutes total time. Didn't even have to pull the wheels.

To avoid any spills at all, when the last caliper is clear, tilt the pressure bleeder so it is pumping just air and close that last bleed screw when the reservoir reads to the "full" mark. You don't have to bother with this but if you don't, the reservoir will be filled right to the top of the neck when you remove the pressure bleeder cap -- no big deal, if this is the case, just remove the excess fluid with the syringe and discard it.

Pedal is now a little firmer -- not super noticable but a little bit. I must not have had much if any air in the system but now at least the fluid is fresh and hopefully will help prevent rust in those expensive brake parts.

 

How many miles on your truck, you may be ready to replace the rubber brake lines that are know to ballon up causing you a softer brake pedal.
Mike

 

On my 03 with 40,000 miles I changed to valvoline synthetic. I had my sweetie pie pump the pedal while I caught the fluid with a pyrex measuring cup I use for mixing gas additives. I would have used a clear tube too, but I didn't have one.

My brakes are very happy now.

 

I just got me one of those "Motive" brake flushing pumps. Very easy one man process withno problems. Glad to have gotten that ugly brake fluid out of my system after 65K.[:'(]

 

Hey Mike, I have 51k on the truck. Hoses look OK from a static pressure point of view, but I'll have to get a helper to stomp on the pedal while I watch for balooning.

The pedal does feel a leeeetle bit on the soft side to my foot, but I'm used to myold Ford pickup not Rovers somaybe I'm just used to having to give the pedal a firm press to make a stop and the Disco is definitely a lighter touch. The new pads and rotors bring this heavy truck to a stop, no problem.

Pressure bleeding the brakes to replace the fluid was an incredibly easy job and well worth it in my book to maybesave a caliper or the gold platedin price ABS pump/modulator. Much rather head off trouble than try to fix it later.

Anyway, thanks very much for the tip -- I'll check it out.

Done so far: air filter, oil and oil filter, brake pads and rotors, fuel conditioner, brake fluid, grease prop shafts(except the 2 u-joints and ball with no fittings on the front prop shaft), replace plugs with Bosch 4418's.

Next steps -- tranny fluid/filter, transfer case oil, front/rear differential oil, replace all u-joints, and then the dreaded ignition wires. I'll be busy.

Did I forget anything important?

Cheers,

-Keith

 

Aquaholic, you are a lucky man if your sweetie will help wrench on the truck. My sweetieis happy to drive it, but that's about it.

 

98roverguy, I could not agree with you more. After trying every possible method of bleeding brakes (and depending on the car, not all of them work so well), the pressure bleeder is the only choice in my book. It is a sure thing that can be completed single handed, works without fail every time and is the fastest method by far.

My only disappointment with the Motive pressure tank I got from British Pacific was that the universal fitting was a bit too narrow for the D2 reservoir -- but an easy work-around got 'er done.