I am planning on changing the oil, I read here a lotabout doing an engine flush. Can someone tell me the steps required to do this.. Also what brand of filter and oil is best recommended for use on a 2002 in the Northeast area.

 

-flush your oil
-install a new filter
-fill engine with thesame quantity ofATF
-Some will say to let idle for 30 minutes
-Others say to idle at 1500 r.p.m for 10 minutes, stop engine for 5 minutes and repeat those steps 3 times. I chose this one cause that's what is recommended by BMW.
-Do not drive the vehicle, stay parked
-flush the ATF
-replace filter with another new one
- fill with oil
- change oil again after driving 1500 miles ( I then went with Mobil 1 full synthetic with amazing results)
- the most recommended oil filter is the K&N hp 3001

 

How many miles on your engine?
For oil filters my 2 favorite ones are the K&N 3001 or the Mobil 1 filter.
Oil changes every 3000 miles, using either a 10W/30 or a 5W/30 depending on the temp.
I use Castrols Blend which is a partial synthetic.
Get back to me with your mileage.
Mike

 

I just did the flush recently. Use any cheap ATF, don't buy the expensive stuff. 10 minutes on, 5 off and 10 minutes on as described works well. I run castrol 5w30, I live in northeast as well. Everyone here swears by KN filters, haven't tried one yet.

 

Its got 63k. Can I use the Castro Blend . I am not sure what was used at the 60K .

 

Sure, good stuff. I run regular GTX and always have in my cars and bikes, but might make the switch to syntec or blend in the rover.

 

ATF in the crankcase?!

Sounds nuts to me. Can't believe BMW would recommend such.

 

While ATF will work, this is a MUCH better way of doing it.

Either of the products work tremendously well. Seafoam has a few more applications, such as putting in the gas tank, crank case, and the vacuum line.

Again, ATF will work also, but these two products are made specifically for an engine flush.

I have used booth numerous times on various vehicles with noticeable results....


http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

http://www.rennenparts.com/index.php...products_id=57

 

Here ya go dude,


NOTE: these instructions were originally written for a BMW 540 that has an 8 quart capacity......so adjust amounts to the Disco's. The person who wrote them claimed that they were given to him by a BMW service manager and "approved by BMW North America." That said, I've never done it tomy BMW or Disco and probably never will.The issue is, when any of these treatments (ATF, AutoRx, etc.) are performed on a higher-mileage/sludged-up motor, they can often free up more deposits, debris and junk than can be safely evacuated from the motor (via the oil filter, exhaust blow-off, etc.). For an example of this, take a close readof AutoRx's instructions for vehicles over a certainnumber of miles......they're adamant about doingmultiple oil filter changes within the process.They'd neverwrite a separate set of instructions or makethe consumer take these extra steps unlessthey knew there were potentialissues with the excess junk that could be freed up in a higher mileage motor. That's only my take on it though. Others swear by the ATF flush and have probably had no issues as a result.

In any event, here are the instructions.....

1. Warm-up engine and drain oil and replace filter.
2. Replace drained engine oil with 8 quarts of clean "transmission fluid" ....yes transmission fluid. REMEMBER tranny fluid is a lubricant as well as a detergent; this should break down years of sludge build-up, etc.
3. Start car idle for 10 minutes at about 1,500 rpm (NO HIGHER)!!!
4. Shut car and let rest for 5 minutes.
5. Repeat step #3 and #4 two more times.
6. Drain all fluids from crankcase and dispose of filter. Notice the color and opacity of the "what was once RED" fluid which is now black as night.
7. Procede with a fresh oil filter and 8 fresh quarts of synthetic.
8. I would reduce the interval of your next oil change by 50%; and repeat the above procedure. This time you should notice that the "Red" fluid going into the crankcase....should come out closer to its original color. Remember, the only way to see if this has effectively worked is by replacing the oil filter before running the tranny fluid; that way you are getting a realistic read on just how clean the system is running; the reuse of the "oil" filter will leave 1/2 to 3/4 quart of dirty oil to mix with the clear red fluid....you get the idea.
9. The detergent action of the tranny fluid will break-down all oil residue, sludge, junk and oil-burnished parts of the engine.
10. And this is safe for all the engine seals as well.

11. REMEMBER: YOU ARE NOT DRIVING THE CAR UNDER LOAD....YOU ARE ONLY IDLING @ 1500 rpm!

 

That would be my concern. Along with creating leaks. I've seen engines that have spent most of their life running dino oil covert to synthetic and start leaking like a sieve.

Of course I think I might remember reading most of the companies started putting in additives to stop that.