Hi Gents,

I've been lurking here for a few months but this is my first post...

I'm trying to convert a GEMS engine over to the BOSCH engine management system. I understand the intake is completely different and will swap over the entire system from my existing engine. I have a new front cover to install, addressing those issues. I'll fabricate something on the knock sensor as the BOSCH system attaches to a stud and the GEMS screws into the block.

My last concern is the Crankshaft position sensor. The BOSCH sensor is a three wire device and would bolt right into place on the housing. Does the housing on a GEMS block position the sensor correctly? The part number on the GEMS housing is ERR3693

Now, as to why I'm doing this. The 2003 Discovery it's in, that I bought three months ago, came with what sounded like a lifter tap. No problem, I can replace the valve related harware and adjust the plunger depth using shims. The engine devloped a deeper tap or knock, sounding sort of between a lifter tap and a bearing knock, sounding high up in the block. The sound started only after the engine was warm. Not sure what it is but fearing the slipped liner syndrome which seem to be somewhat over-reported. Then a bearing knock develops with the oil light being on. I didn't measure the oil pressure but it's clearly knocking.

Compression test yields uniform pressures but seem low. Adding a little oil to the cylinders improved the numbers temporarily. Leakdown percentage was horrific....25%! Before retiring the truck, it developed a massive multiple missfire problem that lead me to foolishly chnage the coil packs, the plugs and wires. I say foolishly because I hate throwing parts at problems...chuckle.

So, rather than a complete rebuild on an engine with suspect casting and possible liner issues, I decided to go the above route.....

Thanks for the help!

 

In my signature you will find links to GEMS and Bosch documentation. Here's photos of the reluctor plates, older engines have the "flying tabs", newer have the drilled disk. They both work by very small space near the tip of the CKP. In either sensor, the "third wire" is likely a shield.

 

You can replace the crank sensor mount with the bosch style. You can get it from your core engine, or you might be able to buy a new one. They need to be welded into place... or something.

EIQ100020 is the part number for the bosch/motronic version, I think.

 

Thanks very much, gents....