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Coolant gushing, can't see where from exactly (pic included)

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  #21  
Old 04-11-2013, 02:44 PM
04duxlr's Avatar
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Here's one: LAND ROVER DISCOVERY ANCILLARY POLYYVEE DRIVE BELT GUARD PART# PRF 100070 on eBay!
Can't confirm the accuracy of the name but I dig it. Sounds much more important than it is.
 
  #22  
Old 04-11-2013, 06:41 PM
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On that belt shroud, just call Paul Grant. He sold me one cheaper than anyplace else I found and if you found a good price on ebay, it stands a good chance of being his anyway. Check his name in my signature. Great guy and he will get it to you quick.
 
  #23  
Old 04-15-2013, 01:24 PM
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Undertook and finished the job, and I wanted to provide info that I gained from the fix.
First, getting that nut loose to remove the fan was not easy. My local Napa does not loan or rent tools (I KNOW RIGHT?!) so I was left to my own devices. That also meant no coolant pressure tester, so all of my eggs were riding on the water pump being my only problem.
I used the largest crescent wrench I had, and it BARELY fit the nut. The handle was only long enough to use the last 2" or so, which made it more interesting. I tried to rotate the nut, but it kept spinning the belts (even when I held the fan still). upon watching a few youtube videos, I decided to spray deep creep on the nut and let it sit a minute then try again. Still no dice. Finally, I used a rubber mallet and hit the wrench handle tip while holding the tensioner pulley in place and cracked the nut loose so I could spin the fan free.
I loosened the bolts holding the pump in place (two different sizes, 10mm and 13 mm I think, just perfect) and peeled it off. The picture shows that the propeller had definitely been grinding against the manifold.

I cleaned out the metal shavings and tried to remove the hose from the base of the pump. This took WAY longer than it should have, as the stupid pinch clamps had been placed with the clamps on the bottom, and the hose was way too tight. I ended up taking the hose off from the Y and leaving it on the old pump, so I could remove it when I took the pump out of the engine compartment.
The next step, which also too WAY too long was to remove the old gasket from the manifold face. Without exaggerating, This took almost an hour. 75% came off without a problem (I was using a razor scraper to remove it), but the other 25% was like heat fused on. I scraped and scraped and scraped. I sprayed WD-40 on to try and loosen it up, no dice. One hour of scraping later, and the face was completely clean and ready for the new pump/gasket. All went back in fairly easily, although I had to look up the tensioner pulley info (I hadn't ever changed the belt before). My tensioner pulley wasn't working the way the instructions told me to, but a shot of deep creep got things in order.
I bled the system to remove air, and all is great!
Thanks again for the help, guys.
 
  #24  
Old 04-15-2013, 02:58 PM
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Good job!
Yes, the crescent wrench and hammer IS THE ONLY WAY!
I use a 4 pound hammer.
That is probably all the problems you had.
You are set.
 
  #25  
Old 04-16-2013, 11:34 AM
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Great job. Here is a pic of the ultimate wrench for this job and can be picked up at most local bike shops. The wrench is for a headset. It is thin and one wacky from a hammer and the fan comes off easy. Sorry I did not see this post and did my water pump yesterday. I was impatient to order the good pump so I ordered one through my friends Audi and be shop and got the one with the brass impeller for $73.
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  #26  
Old 04-16-2013, 11:48 AM
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Great tip on the wrench AMSSCHNELLSTEN.
My water pump choices at NAPA varied between $135-160, I went with the cheapest one. The propeller is aluminum, from what I can tell.
 
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