Coolant loss but none when pressure tested
#11
Isn't the pressure of the cap 18lbs? That so a 15lb pressure test would not tell you much.
The throttle body heater plate leak would show up visually as coolant on the drivers side valve cover, down the side of the head, and/or on the exhaust.
Signs of coolant in the oil would be visible on the dip stick.
The throttle body heater plate leak would show up visually as coolant on the drivers side valve cover, down the side of the head, and/or on the exhaust.
Signs of coolant in the oil would be visible on the dip stick.
Last edited by Dave03S; 10-15-2015 at 12:33 PM.
#12
@ hokkabaz, when you bleed via the screw on the T, you should be topping up the overflow tank so that it does not go below the visible portion of the overflow tank. You should also remove the tank from its perch and hold it as high as you can without breaking one of the plastic lines. This should be done with the engine COLD, STONE COLD. Not after it has been running.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
Last edited by Dave03S; 10-15-2015 at 12:39 PM.
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hokkabaz (10-15-2015)
#13
Join Date: Mar 2013
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rtonder wrote: "It could be drawing coolant into either the front or rear cylinders on either bank after the engine warms up to operating temp. Not sure, but can happen if head gaskets are upside down or if the block/heads are not flat. Check to see if front or rear spark plugs in both banks are white and not light tan. If insulation is white, could be coolant in the combustion chamber."
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Yes, exactly. So, if all else fails, keep the above in mind. Too often I see guys changing head gaskets, with little or no experience in doing so, when they have block or heads that are ever so slightly warped from heat (aluminum heads, especially, are notorious for this), and/or they don't do torque sequence or proper torque correctly. I have learned through experience, especially with the all aluminum block/head of the Rover engine, that it pays in long run, to check very carefully the flatness of the heads/block mating surfaces, using precision straight edge and feeler gauge, to use the best, highest quality head gaskets available, use ARP head studs/nuts; not common Rover stretch head bolts, and to take your time and do the whole job right the first time, or risk future problems, such as what you are seeing, or worse problems.
________________________
Yes, exactly. So, if all else fails, keep the above in mind. Too often I see guys changing head gaskets, with little or no experience in doing so, when they have block or heads that are ever so slightly warped from heat (aluminum heads, especially, are notorious for this), and/or they don't do torque sequence or proper torque correctly. I have learned through experience, especially with the all aluminum block/head of the Rover engine, that it pays in long run, to check very carefully the flatness of the heads/block mating surfaces, using precision straight edge and feeler gauge, to use the best, highest quality head gaskets available, use ARP head studs/nuts; not common Rover stretch head bolts, and to take your time and do the whole job right the first time, or risk future problems, such as what you are seeing, or worse problems.
Last edited by earlyrover; 10-15-2015 at 12:57 PM.
#14
@ hokkabaz, when you bleed via the screw on the T, you should be topping up the overflow tank so that it does not go below the visible portion of the overflow tank. You should also remove the tank from its perch and hold it as high as you can without breaking one of the plastic lines. This should be done with the engine COLD, STONE COLD. Not after it has been running.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
1) i was filling up when the engine is hot, because a friend was telling me the engine should be running to be able to push the air out
2) i didnt higher the tank(i guess the reason is to give more force to water to push away the air trapped on the lower parts?)
I will repeat it to ight with these 2 things in mind! Thank you!
#15
I did top it off but
1) i was filling up when the engine is hot, because a friend was telling me the engine should be running to be able to push the air out
2) i didnt higher the tank(i guess the reason is to give more force to water to push away the air trapped on the lower parts?)
I will repeat it to ight with these 2 things in mind! Thank you!
1) i was filling up when the engine is hot, because a friend was telling me the engine should be running to be able to push the air out
2) i didnt higher the tank(i guess the reason is to give more force to water to push away the air trapped on the lower parts?)
I will repeat it to ight with these 2 things in mind! Thank you!
I know I normally fill systems that have the cap on the radiator, while running, so I can see that the thermostat is opening and flowing. To be clear on this, I do this when the engine is cold and allow it to heat up while keeping an eye on the level and flow. When the fluid gets hot enough, the thermostat will open and you can see it flowing and level will drop, i fill it and watch it go thru a couple of cycles before closing it and then filling the reservoir.
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hokkabaz (10-16-2015)
#16
I did what you guys said and I think i am over this issue also, 5678 more to go!!! Even when the engine is cold, i can still see some amount of water in the coolant tank and obdII shows 189-194ish on highway and 194when in traffic with AC on, which is not high as I see from other members inputs! Thank yall!
#18
Still searching
I can tinker, but not a mechanic, and with even less time, so I'm using Route 60 Garage in Valrico, FL. They pressure tested at 15# for 90 minutes and found no leaks--and they say no pressure loss.
The condensation I saw at the back of the engine they say is the engine drains which seems consistent with other forum responses.
I'm having the radiator cap changes and running another pressure test--will buy my own for future challenges.
I'll mention the throttle plate heater to them as potential leak, but wouldn't that show up under pressure test?
Dr Mordo: My coolant level was about an inch below the full line and I didn't bleed the system to check if it was going to stabilize there. Perhaps should have bled it before taking it to the garage, but I was concerned about the engine drain condensation, which I now understand is normal.
Have other questions about Amigos, but will keep the thread clean.
Thanks for the help.
The condensation I saw at the back of the engine they say is the engine drains which seems consistent with other forum responses.
I'm having the radiator cap changes and running another pressure test--will buy my own for future challenges.
I'll mention the throttle plate heater to them as potential leak, but wouldn't that show up under pressure test?
Dr Mordo: My coolant level was about an inch below the full line and I didn't bleed the system to check if it was going to stabilize there. Perhaps should have bled it before taking it to the garage, but I was concerned about the engine drain condensation, which I now understand is normal.
Have other questions about Amigos, but will keep the thread clean.
Thanks for the help.
#19
#20
Head Gaskets now
Found leak at small hose at bottom of radiator and changed radiator cap. External leaks fixed. Took home and gets waterfall after 5 minutes and starts to overheat. Bled "by the book" when stone cold. Same thing. Towed to garage who said lower hoses were cool, but uppers hot. Said he ran block dye and says head gaskets blown. Engine runs very smoothly and drives great. Any of this sound right?
Quoted $2200 to do the job IF the heads are OK. Another $2000 (British Atlantic) if not. If I have to do both, I'll have $6,500 in repairs over five months.
If it runs a couple years without more than $1-2K annual maintenance, still a bargain, I guess.
Will advise next week after getting the work done.
Quoted $2200 to do the job IF the heads are OK. Another $2000 (British Atlantic) if not. If I have to do both, I'll have $6,500 in repairs over five months.
If it runs a couple years without more than $1-2K annual maintenance, still a bargain, I guess.
Will advise next week after getting the work done.