Coolant in oil
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Mudding
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 122
Likes: 2
From: seattle wa
Ok ok here is the thing
I had a gaskets replaced by veteran mechanic of over 30 years of experience
He specializes in Audi and vw but worked all his life all kinds of cars still works for a very reputable Audi dealer
He is also family and not to mention very very very particular about his work
He made me take the heads to the shop to get them machined basically he wouldn't screw me over
Has all the tools one can imagine at the dealer as well as in his one garage
The man knows his stuff
We used Atlantic British gaskets and bolts and made sure three or so time that we tighten the bolts the recommended way
More then a gallon of coolant desecrated from cooling system because it rains here so much I thought I didn't see it well it's still the mixed in oil
Isn't there anybody that would think for sure it's maybe the fort gasket cover rather then the damn head gaskets
Sorry for my expressions and thank you all very very much you guys have been more help then I could have expected
I had a gaskets replaced by veteran mechanic of over 30 years of experience
He specializes in Audi and vw but worked all his life all kinds of cars still works for a very reputable Audi dealer
He is also family and not to mention very very very particular about his work
He made me take the heads to the shop to get them machined basically he wouldn't screw me over
Has all the tools one can imagine at the dealer as well as in his one garage
The man knows his stuff
We used Atlantic British gaskets and bolts and made sure three or so time that we tighten the bolts the recommended way
More then a gallon of coolant desecrated from cooling system because it rains here so much I thought I didn't see it well it's still the mixed in oil
Isn't there anybody that would think for sure it's maybe the fort gasket cover rather then the damn head gaskets
Sorry for my expressions and thank you all very very much you guys have been more help then I could have expected
Mudding
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 199
Likes: 6
So if you are confident with the head gaskets, then lets go down the list.
The next spot is the timing chain cover, it is very possible the coolant is divided from the oil by about 1/4 inch of gasket. So it is very possible that is the issue as well.
If you are their you might as well replace the timing chain and water pump.
The next spot is the timing chain cover, it is very possible the coolant is divided from the oil by about 1/4 inch of gasket. So it is very possible that is the issue as well.
If you are their you might as well replace the timing chain and water pump.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 31
From: Placerville, CA USA
So if you are confident with the head gaskets, then lets go down the list.
The next spot is the timing chain cover, it is very possible the coolant is divided from the oil by about 1/4 inch of gasket. So it is very possible that is the issue as well.
If you are their you might as well replace the timing chain and water pump.
The next spot is the timing chain cover, it is very possible the coolant is divided from the oil by about 1/4 inch of gasket. So it is very possible that is the issue as well.
If you are their you might as well replace the timing chain and water pump.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 452
Likes: 26
From: Oregon, north of Salem
Not really. Coolant passages aren't centered and cylinder bore size isn't consistent due to machining problems...hence the cracks and leaks. You can weld cracks, and use flanged liners but the coolant passages and cylinder bore (and God knows what else) will still be off. If I'm going to pay the kind of money they want for these rebuilt engines, it better darn well be from a good block (99-00 RR 4.6). That's just me though.
Not really. What you suggest isn't exactly fully accurate. Rover did, indeed, as you say, periodically have problems at foundry, with casting some cylinder bores misaligned, so that is precisely the reason that they started doing ultrasonic scanning of the blocks by hand, eventually making ultrasonic scanning of all blocks automated, so they could see exactly the sizes and spacing between bores and coolant passages (called the water jacket). The blocks with the thinnest walls behind cylinder liners, they used for the 4.0 litre; the blocks with the thicker walls behind liners, they used for the 4.6 litre. The ones that were as you describe, unusable, were scrapped. There never were any "machining problems," but if there were, they certainly would have never gone through to completion. So, today, the blocks are all within original casting specifications; Tig welding & machining to fit in new cylinder liners is valid as ever. I do Tig welding, so I know a thing or two about it. Tig welding cracked aluminum walls behind liners in one Rover 4.6 L block, will make the end result the same (a "good block," as you describe) as if one had used any other Rover 4.6 L. block, cracked or not cracked.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 2
From: Sayreville, NJ
My suggestion is drop the oil pan and pressurize it. If it leaks from near the front cover you're out $20 for a gasket (and the oil pan is already on the ground)...if it leaks from anywhere else you're out an engine....sad but true.
Overlanding
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 1
I am trying to track down a similar problem. From what I have learned the first thing I would do is go down to Autozone and rent a testing kit to check for combustion gasses in the coolant. I think the deposit is around $40 and you have to purchase chemicals to go with it around $9. This will tell you if your leak is getting into the combustion chamber. A positive result would mean it was a head, head gasket, slipped liner, or block/head crack that is leaking into the combustion chamber. If it is negative, I would follow earlyrovers advise and see if you can determine if it is a timing gasket, valley gasket, or oil cooler (I am not sure if the oil cooler can leak into the radiator on a Disco 2). I would clarify that you can have leaking (not from the front cover) from the valley gasket and not have a bad engine. With the oil pan off, you would see the leaking by looking behind the crank at the cam above the cylinders. If the leak is not big, you may have to wipe everything down and move crankshaft by turning the crank by the nut on the pulley. With some patience, you should be able to see where it is leaking. The other possibility is that there is a crack in your block that is leaking out the bottom of your cylinder liner. I am finding my problem difficult to diagnose. I have good compression and pulling the pan and pressurizing the cooling system didn't give me a definitive diagnosis because the cooling system held pressure. I am beginning to think my problem may only manifest when the car is at temperature. Good luck, I hope yours is easier to diagnose than mine.
TReK
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,748
Likes: 506
From: Seattle, Wa
Thats cool and all that the OP has an Audi mechanic in the family with tools, but for the others reading, this is exactly why you go to a LR specific indy specialist, they see these sorts of issues on these cars all the time and don't need to expand their learning curve on your car.
As I've said before, LR's are quirky. Their quirks are best known by people who see them and fix them every day over years.
Just sayin.
This person will be ok because of the family connection and won't get screwed, but for the rest of us, there is no good reason to take your LR to someone who mostly works on other cars. Sure a good mechanic is a good mechanic but nothing beats years of brand specific experience.
As I've said before, LR's are quirky. Their quirks are best known by people who see them and fix them every day over years.
Just sayin.
This person will be ok because of the family connection and won't get screwed, but for the rest of us, there is no good reason to take your LR to someone who mostly works on other cars. Sure a good mechanic is a good mechanic but nothing beats years of brand specific experience.
Last edited by Dave03S; Feb 14, 2014 at 03:39 PM.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 863
Likes: 18
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Not really. What you suggest isn't exactly fully accurate. Rover did, indeed, as you say, periodically have problems at foundry, with casting some cylinder bores misaligned, so that is precisely the reason that they started doing ultrasonic scanning of the blocks by hand, eventually making ultrasonic scanning of all blocks automated, so they could see exactly the sizes and spacing between bores and coolant passages (called the water jacket). The blocks with the thinnest walls behind cylinder liners, they used for the 4.0 litre; the blocks with the thicker walls behind liners, they used for the 4.6 litre. The ones that were as you describe, unusable, were scrapped. There never were any "machining problems," but if there were, they certainly would have never gone through to completion. So, today, the blocks are all within original casting specifications; Tig welding & machining to fit in new cylinder liners is valid as ever. I do Tig welding, so I know a thing or two about it. Tig welding cracked aluminum walls behind liners in one Rover 4.6 L block, will make the end result the same (a "good block," as you describe) as if one had used any other Rover 4.6 L. block, cracked or not cracked.
Not really. What you suggest isn't exactly fully accurate. Rover did, indeed, as you say, periodically have problems at foundry, with casting some cylinder bores misaligned, so that is precisely the reason that they started doing ultrasonic scanning of the blocks by hand, eventually making ultrasonic scanning of all blocks automated, so they could see exactly the sizes and spacing between bores and coolant passages (called the water jacket). The blocks with the thinnest walls behind cylinder liners, they used for the 4.0 litre; the blocks with the thicker walls behind liners, they used for the 4.6 litre. The ones that were as you describe, unusable, were scrapped. There never were any "machining problems," but if there were, they certainly would have never gone through to completion. So, today, the blocks are all within original casting specifications; Tig welding & machining to fit in new cylinder liners is valid as ever. I do Tig welding, so I know a thing or two about it. Tig welding cracked aluminum walls behind liners in one Rover 4.6 L block, will make the end result the same (a "good block," as you describe) as if one had used any other Rover 4.6 L. block, cracked or not cracked.
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 122
Likes: 2
From: seattle wa
Ok boys and girls I have not forgotten about all of you just started working on it
Pulled the oil pan put pressure into cooling system water started leaking from the from around the front cover ordered all the parts including chain and all the Bells and whistles getting ready to remove the front cover in a few days
Question::
Why is there what seems to me like a tranny fluid line connected to the front cover
Thanks all very very much
Pulled the oil pan put pressure into cooling system water started leaking from the from around the front cover ordered all the parts including chain and all the Bells and whistles getting ready to remove the front cover in a few days
Question::
Why is there what seems to me like a tranny fluid line connected to the front cover
Thanks all very very much