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cooling fan question

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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 09:36 AM
  #11  
Dan7's Avatar
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HA! When you said "aluminum", I assumed you were talking about the radiator.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #12  
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The thing is that when I had the belt off there was no shaft play in the pump, I did not know at the time the fan was attached at the pump. but I tried to see if there was play in it. It was just the plastic that seemed off center. if that makes sense.

what would be the issue of going with a conventional fan vs viscus?

other then not using a stock part on the truck.

what I tend to find on here when asking questions is that, replace it with stock even though that part sucked to start with. Mind you there could be a better alternative out there.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 12:03 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Here's what happens when it wobbles. The impeller eats aluminum, both the pump and the front cover. One after market crossover clutch is a 2000 Chevy Express van 4.3 liter without AC. Bolt holes on fan have to be increased. Bolts to our water pump, which is same in D1 or D2. And yes, that means a junkyard Chevy clutch and fan will fit, with a little precise trimming. I experimented and got one from a 2000 Blazer to fit. So for me, it was $5 for a water pump off a D2 (looked pretty new), and $19 for Chevy clutch and fan.

Boneyards are not for everyone, but when stuck a long way from home, or a long way from next payday; they can be useful.

Rule of thumb is that fan clutch gets weaker, as does pump. Guys put on a new clutch, and old pump has hard time dancing fast with Miss Fanny Clutch, the Brazilian body builder babe. Old pump dies soon. Clutch and WP love to jump off cliff together, who can blame them, they made millions of turns around the dance floor and were worn down in perfect balance.
Boneyards are no big deal for me, I wouldnt be doing all the work myself if they were. Not to mention the parts are silly priced anyway if you don't try to save a little money.

I am a machinist at a aerospace company, putting the viscus clutch on the bridgeport to enlarge a hole if I have to go that route is not difficult.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 05:17 AM
  #14  
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OK, so now that you all have me terrified that my water pump is going out and even though I double checked it whilst replacing my upper rad hose today, what do you think about this.

Thinking about replacing the water pump and at the same time putting in a Flexalite 1715 or 1315.

Discuss.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 05:51 AM
  #15  
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Time to replace the WP.
You get the belt off first by loosening the tension er. Take a picture of the belt before it is off. You rotate the tensioner to take off tension with a long breaker bar.

Water pump fan - get a large crescent wrench and a hammer and whack it from the right to the left. Fan will finally rotate off.

Then you be in da water pump's 'hood.
Get the hose off.
Show respect moving the wP boltz as does affect the timing cover below.
Don't want to warp the timing cover and make more troubl
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 08:17 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by dpaller
Thinking about replacing the water pump and at the same time putting in a Flexalite 1715 or 1315.

Discuss.
I'd vote for the 1315 as it appears lighter...reduced rotating mass = more hp.
 
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