I had a heater core issue

i solved it by flushing the heater core itself. Disconnect both sides and stick a garden hose and flush both ways. My core was actually clogged causing the coolant to back up into the overflow tank. This was also caused the truck to run Hoyt as the coolant was not circulating through the system.

give this a try before you write the truck off

 

thats what I was hinting at too. When that water pump went out on me, I changed it, the radiator, and the thermostat (even though it was only 3 weeks old) and was getting high temps even though the heater was working fine. I had changed all the hoses and just by feeling them, the one going into the heater core was hott and the one coming out was hot but nowhere near as hot as the others. I disconnected both sides and flushed the crap out of it both ways and then used a shop vac to suck the garden hose water out and poured some distilled in there just to make myself feel better. Then sucked it out and hooked the hoses up and topped everything off and bled it per the manual and it's been working like a charm ever since. It amazed me that it still had water flowing through it where both hoses were getting hot but not enough where the temps were the same.

 

I don't want to write the Rover off. I'll get this thing figured out before I leave just because of my OCD. There's no way I'll be able to walk away from something that I have so much time invested in, and money.

The heater core is definitely something that I'm going to address tomorrow.

 

Running hot up inclines isn't unheard of for a 4.6, especially if you've changed the gearing in the last couple of days by installing bigger tires, or added wind resistance through your roof rack's surface area.

one additional thing to look at, is your transmission temp. It took me a couple of years to figure out that making my truck heavier, adding wind resistance and increasing tire size was causing the trans to heat up the motor on inclines.

my fix will be to finally install 4.11 gears and a bigger Allisport radiator. I'm trying to find a good spot to add a bigger aftermarket transmission cooler as well.

 

We've been running the same tires for a couple years now so I don't think that's an issue. We have added a roof rack, but that's been on for about 7 months now with no issues prior. Our temp is going up in every condition. It goes up at idle, driving flat, and uphill.

This situation is really eating at me. We're supposed to leave in 2.5 weeks, and right now the Rover isn't giving me a good feeling. Conversations came up last night about selling it if we couldn't get it figured out. Even if that's what it comes to I feel we're going to lose money on the deal. Time will tell, and hopefully something good will come from all of this.

 

I just added a second factory trans cooler instead of an oil cooler. Works like a charm.

 

I talked to the shop a few minutes ago, and have some news. It appears that I may have had a blonde moment when installing the new AC condenser motor. I was informed that the fan was pulling rather than pushing meaning that I wired it backwards. I'm hoping this will make enough of a difference to calm our nerves.

I also asked a few questions about what they had done. They verified the radiator, and heater core were both clog free. The said the system was properly burped, and holds pressure just fine. Lastly they said the temps wanted to go up at low RPM's, and once you got the RPM's up the temps drop drastically. Given the fan was wired backwards I'm really hoping fixing that issue will help me.

I'm also going to look into installing another auxiliary to help with additional cooling. The Rover is still being picked up by my brother today, and he's going to poke around to see if he can find anything else out about it. Fingers crossed!

 

I need some advise for dual fan setup's. I can go with a dual Flax-a-Lite setup with a Painless controller, and dual 12" FF Dynamic's fans with the same controller.

If going with the Flex-a-Lite I will need to get a measurement of the mounting area to make certain the kit will kit. These dual kits would more around 2400-2600 cfm.

If I go with the FF Dynamics it'll be a more straight forward install since I would be ordering two 12" fans that aren't shrouded in. These fans move around 1600 cfm each, and 3200 cfm when running together.

Either setup I go with will both be run the same way. I'll have 1 fan that still comes at the factory setting, and along with the AC. The other fan will be controlled be a probe though the fins of the radiator, and that will be adjustable from 140 to 220.

 

Don't get confused with the amount of air it moves vs a shrouded setup that moves slightly less air, but from more of the core. I've personally ran a Flex-a-lite dual setup on the radiator of a big block that was making over 700hp and it kept it running cool.

Edit: The other point to this discussion is what amount of air the fan is moving at idle through 30MPH. That's really the only time they are doing the cooling.

 

You don't want a shrouded fan in front of your radiator. If you're just getting an extra fan to be a secondary aux fan then just get a universal 12" slim fan off of eBay.