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Old May 3, 2018 | 10:38 PM
  #11  
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Yep bad stat. Get a new one
 
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Old May 3, 2018 | 11:22 PM
  #12  
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Strange to see so many failures of brand new thermostats from all makes.
 
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Old May 4, 2018 | 04:10 AM
  #13  
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That's weird if it is the Tstat, got one from Atlantic b same thing lucky 8 same
is this a common problem to get so many they fail ??
 
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Old May 4, 2018 | 07:05 AM
  #14  
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I haven’t had a black britpart unit fail. Just old OEM 195’s. Toss it into a pot of boiling water and watch it.
 
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Old May 4, 2018 | 07:24 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Friday Night Disco
I agree get a new cap

I also think you should work on isolating the issue

1. ensure T-stat is working
2. ensure fan clutch is working
3. ensure heater core is not clogged

Check the last couple pages of this thread for what person did

https://landroverforums.com/forum/bu...e4/#post646250
Why would a clogged heater core have any influence in overheating ?
 
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Old May 4, 2018 | 07:27 AM
  #16  
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I'm going to reflush rad again just to make sure no blockage

I'm assuming if it was a water pump issue I would not have good heat in cabin as flow would be poor ?? I have lots of heat

it's just weird that the oem thermostat new low temp thermostat from lucky 8 and Atlantic British all run at same temperature

unless I'm really unlucky and have a bad lucky 8 and Atlantic British thermostat

I got a new replacing from Atlantic British I will be putting in today

let's see what happens

if that doesn't work I guess my water pump is next
 
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Old May 4, 2018 | 08:56 AM
  #17  
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“If” the heater core is blocked you are loosing coolant flow for starters. Second the heater core is basically just a mini radiator, and although you may have the AC on coolant is always flowing thru it and air is passing thru it. The HVAC system just closes a flap so you don’t feel it inside the cab.

My 02 Kalahari had this happen last year around August. I noticed small temp increases by 1-4F, but it was still within the normal range. Then when we actually had snow in TX I noticed my heater was 100% INOP. Core was clogged & once I back flushed it and got the white snot out of it my temps returned to their normal range.

Before you flush it again, remove the bleed screw and see how much coolant you can add thru it = that is your air pocket. If it’s a lot top off, run, cool, and top off until the bubble is gone.

When you flush it again and are done bleed it like this:

Fill with coolant, take off the bleeder screw and top off thru the bleeder. Let it run for about 10-15 or until it reaches 195F. Shut it off and let it completely cool down. Top off as needed, removed bleeder once again, top off thru it, run it up to 195F again, and let it cool. You should just have to barely top it off in the reservoir, and the T shouldn’t need a lot added to it. Or park on the side of a mountain and burp it that way (my method never gives me any issues).
 

Last edited by Best4x4; May 4, 2018 at 09:03 AM.
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Old May 4, 2018 | 09:58 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Externet
Why would a clogged heater core have any influence in overheating ?
The coolant can't flow in an out of the core and causes the heat to build up on the inlet hose. It will not cause the vehicle to overheat but, it will bump up the temps as the coolant can't complete the loop. After I replaced my clogged heater core, the temps dropped approximately 6 to 10 degrees
 
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Old May 4, 2018 | 10:12 AM
  #19  
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Yep I lost 5F after I blew the crap out of my 02’s heater core.
 
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Old May 4, 2018 | 10:23 AM
  #20  
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With a plugged heater core would the bottom rad hose be cold when the rest of temps are 210 f
 
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