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Old May 4, 2018 | 07:54 PM
  #31  
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I just bought a smaller hose and installed it

why do they have a bleeder on top of rad ?
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 09:40 AM
  #32  
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The Bleed Screw on top of the T? To help get the air out of the system. I've worked and owned plenty of D2's that just had a solid T vs one with a bleed screw and I was always able to burp the system of any air. Works either way, but the bleed screw is handy (to bad OEM is 100% plastic..).
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 10:54 AM
  #33  
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I'm still having an issue I'm thinking the top of radiator bleed that line that is metal that's suppose to clip onto top of rad run along and shoots into the recovery tank
well someone ran tubing that was long and into the tank
I'm going to try and get s metal like just like it was designed

on highway or if I sit idle and put the rpm to 2 k the coolant temp drops quick to 195 if I let it idle it goes up to 215

im thinking either I still have air or the water pump needs that extra rpm to pump and circulate in the rad

this is really bothering me as I have bleed the air twice in the morning when it was stone cold and get a full stream of coolant out of the bleed screw

I'm starting to think my water pump impeller is failing as at high rpm I have no issues with temp
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 11:16 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
I'm still having an issue I'm thinking the top of radiator bleed that line that is metal that's suppose to clip onto top of rad run along and shoots into the recovery tank
well someone ran tubing that was long and into the tank
I'm going to try and get s metal like just like it was designed

on highway or if I sit idle and put the rpm to 2 k the coolant temp drops quick to 195 if I let it idle it goes up to 215

im thinking either I still have air or the water pump needs that extra rpm to pump and circulate in the rad

this is really bothering me as I have bleed the air twice in the morning when it was stone cold and get a full stream of coolant out of the bleed screw

I'm starting to think my water pump impeller is failing as at high rpm I have no issues with temp
Those temps sound exactly like mine when I was running the white T-Stat.

If you are running a true 180 T-Stat you should be 10 to 15 degrees cooler. However, I think you had multi issues and you have solved just one or two. My next recommendation is to bypass the heater core and see what your temps are.
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 11:43 AM
  #35  
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I have the lucky 8 black 180 stat

if I sit at idle at around 2 k rpm temps are fine (190 195 ) if I let it sit at idle at regular rpm it starts to creep up to 197-210 within 2 min


how tight do you tighten the coolant cap on these ? All the way tight and snug ???
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 11:59 AM
  #36  
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My truck idles at 203-206 when it's warm out with ac on. If I rev it, temp drops to 195-197. It is always 194-195 driving. It will most always be warmer idling. Under 210 is fine. It should NOT get to 215 though....
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 01:41 PM
  #37  
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Park it on a hill with the front end up.

Let it run and unscrew the bleeder above the alternator.

Turn the heat on so you can tell if you got good flow, it should be very hot.

Squeeze your heater, radiator hoses quickly to help dislodge air.

Funny how everyone gets bad tstats.
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 02:43 PM
  #38  
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At this point I'm lost
even at Hwy speeds if my rpm is not above 2000 is starts to creep up if I'm going over 2000 rpm it drops to 190 degrees if I go 1500 rpm it starts to go up to 215 220 degrees

water pump ???
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 03:25 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
At this point I'm lost
even at Hwy speeds if my rpm is not above 2000 is starts to creep up if I'm going over 2000 rpm it drops to 190 degrees if I go 1500 rpm it starts to go up to 215 220 degrees

water pump ???
did you try to bypass the heater core?
 
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Old May 5, 2018 | 03:31 PM
  #40  
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I have not as both my hoses are same temp and I have lots of heat inside disco
and with the heat on my temps drop about 5 degrees
 
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