Cooling system help
#32
05-05-2018, 09:40 AM
Super Moderator
The Bleed Screw on top of the T? To help get the air out of the system. I've worked and owned plenty of D2's that just had a solid T vs one with a bleed screw and I was always able to burp the system of any air. Works either way, but the bleed screw is handy (to bad OEM is 100% plastic..).
#33
05-05-2018, 10:54 AM
I'm still having an issue I'm thinking the top of radiator bleed that line that is metal that's suppose to clip onto top of rad run along and shoots into the recovery tank
well someone ran tubing that was long and into the tank
I'm going to try and get s metal like just like it was designed
on highway or if I sit idle and put the rpm to 2 k the coolant temp drops quick to 195 if I let it idle it goes up to 215
im thinking either I still have air or the water pump needs that extra rpm to pump and circulate in the rad
this is really bothering me as I have bleed the air twice in the morning when it was stone cold and get a full stream of coolant out of the bleed screw
I'm starting to think my water pump impeller is failing as at high rpm I have no issues with temp
well someone ran tubing that was long and into the tank
I'm going to try and get s metal like just like it was designed
on highway or if I sit idle and put the rpm to 2 k the coolant temp drops quick to 195 if I let it idle it goes up to 215
im thinking either I still have air or the water pump needs that extra rpm to pump and circulate in the rad
this is really bothering me as I have bleed the air twice in the morning when it was stone cold and get a full stream of coolant out of the bleed screw
I'm starting to think my water pump impeller is failing as at high rpm I have no issues with temp
#34
05-05-2018, 11:16 AM
Pro Wrench
I'm still having an issue I'm thinking the top of radiator bleed that line that is metal that's suppose to clip onto top of rad run along and shoots into the recovery tank
well someone ran tubing that was long and into the tank
I'm going to try and get s metal like just like it was designed
on highway or if I sit idle and put the rpm to 2 k the coolant temp drops quick to 195 if I let it idle it goes up to 215
im thinking either I still have air or the water pump needs that extra rpm to pump and circulate in the rad
this is really bothering me as I have bleed the air twice in the morning when it was stone cold and get a full stream of coolant out of the bleed screw
I'm starting to think my water pump impeller is failing as at high rpm I have no issues with temp
well someone ran tubing that was long and into the tank
I'm going to try and get s metal like just like it was designed
on highway or if I sit idle and put the rpm to 2 k the coolant temp drops quick to 195 if I let it idle it goes up to 215
im thinking either I still have air or the water pump needs that extra rpm to pump and circulate in the rad
this is really bothering me as I have bleed the air twice in the morning when it was stone cold and get a full stream of coolant out of the bleed screw
I'm starting to think my water pump impeller is failing as at high rpm I have no issues with temp
If you are running a true 180 T-Stat you should be 10 to 15 degrees cooler. However, I think you had multi issues and you have solved just one or two. My next recommendation is to bypass the heater core and see what your temps are.
#35
05-05-2018, 11:43 AM
#36
05-05-2018, 11:59 AM
#37
05-05-2018, 01:41 PM
Pro Wrench
#38
05-05-2018, 02:43 PM
#39
05-05-2018, 03:25 PM
Pro Wrench